Pepsand's UK Cruise

Postscript

2010-09-08T21:47:00.003+01:00

Cruise Statistics

In the three months away we used 24 marinas, 5 drying harbours, 12 deep water harbours, stayed at 5 clubs, used one mooring overnight and anchored overnight 7 times. We did over 1800nm.

300 litres of diesel, 5 litres of oil, 2 oil filters and 4 fuel filters were consumed, and four bottles of calor gas.

The marinas were generally of a high standard, with the more expensive ones not necessarily the best. Most disappointing was Oban, though the free ferry service made up for some of the shortcomings. Sutton Harbour was the dearest, but gave very good value in terms of service and convenience. Smaller places such as Ardglass, Glenarm and Whitehills were the best and most welcoming, though probably the largest, Bangor, was excellent and not as expensive as some of the lesser places.

Drying harbours are always interesting and sometimes fraught with the unexpected. You are never guaranteed to dry out upright. Rye and Lyme Regis are well set up for yachts, others less so. This was refreshing, as at St. Michael's Mount, or disappointing, as at Bridlington and Balbriggan. Some harbours charged, others not. There did not seem to be much logic in this, except that it probably costs more than it is worth to collect the money. The deep water harbours were equally variable. This all added to the interest.

The anchorages were all picturesque and the process went well. In Porth Cressa The wind got up suddenly and raising the anchor on my own was somewhat strenuous. Elsewhere the whole thing went very smoothly and we did not drag, though the wind sometimes prevented a proper night's rest. Dandy Hole and the River Fal, and especially Lindisfarne, were idyllic.

The clubs were without exception very welcoming and helpful, and inexpensive. Thank you to Lyme Regis Y.C., Brixham Y.C., Fowey Gallants Y.C., Royal Northumberland Y.C., Humber Cruising Association, Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Y.C., Southwold Y.C.

The Caledonian Canal was well organised, and the staff friendly and very helpful. The amenities, however, were extremely variable, from excellent, at Banavie, to poor at Seaport Marina, and non-existent in other places.

The weather began well. A north-easterly airstream persisted until we reached Fowey, where the first non-sailing day occurred, because of dense fog. However, it was not warm, and shorts were worn only twice: in Brixham and in the Fal. The overnight passage to Ireland was helped by a NEf4/5 breeze, but this kept going and penned us in at Wicklow. A short anticyclone improved things for Strangford Lough, where I enjoyed two days' summer weather, and enjoyable sailing as far as Ballycastle. As soon as Lucy and I reached Scottish waters the weather turned foul, and from there on a string of depressions reduced our opportunities. No anchoring off, no exploring in the islands except by road. From Islay to Corpach it was a case of waiting for a lull and going for the next shelter. In the Caledonian Canal conditions were dominated by rain. Once we came back to the sea things improved, and we were not kept from sailing from Inverness onward. The longest day-sail was 97nm from Boddam to Eyemouth in 16hrs. The shortest was Corpach to Banavie, but including Neptune's Staircase, 1.3nm. From Eyemouth the winds were mainly from the west and rarely strong, so that sailing was always possible.

Bridlington, Grimsby and Wells and on to Suffolk and home

2010-08-04T10:55:00.013+01:00

Day 86

27th July

This morning was spent in port. A very helpful chandlery salesman found me a replacement fuse holder, which I managed to solder in place in the switchboard. In clearing weather it was possible to sail the 17nm to Bridlington, nestling in the bay behind Flamborough Head. This place really needs a shake-up. Obtaining no response to my VHF calls, I tried the mobile phone. No joy. The tide was fine, so in we went, and when I had finished tying up to a catamaran on the South Quay, a harbour worker asked if I was a visitor, and suggested that I tied up to the wall itself, behind the other boat. He explained that they could not keep a full watch going as they had other jobs to do, and they had lost the handheld VHF set. Later he brought a form for me to fill in. I had been looking forward to a shower or even a bath at the Royal Yorkshire Yacht Club, but the premises were deserted. There are no other facilities apart from public conveniences at Bridlington Harbour.

Day 87
28th July

From Bridlington I had a long sail down to Spurn, catching mackerel for Jo. I was able to sail sedately at under 4kt until Spurn, where engine was required to cross the Humber VTS shipping lanes into wind and in the teeth of a very heavy shower. Cousin Jo(doubly so, since my father's younger brother married my mother's younger sister) came to the Humber Cruising Association Marina to pick me up. Via the Humber Bridge it did not take long to reach her home in Hessle, where a tasty meal was soon on the table.

Day 88
29th July

A day with cousins Jo, Jon and David, and niece Sarah, ended with Jo, David, his wife Karen and I spending the evening together, eating out at the Wrygarth Inn.

Day 89
30th July

Cousin Jon came over at 06.30 and after breakfast drove Jo and me to Grimsby. Here the Old Fish Dock lock is open for freeflow for two hours either side of high water. Leaving promptly, the westerly breeze soon had us rattling along at over 5kt. At 08.50 we entered the Eastern Hemishere and skirted the bombing range at Donna Nook. The wind became squally, with slight showers, prompting me to reef the genoa, but we beat close inshore as far as Skegness, coming inshore of the wind farm, before a heavier shower killed the wind. The rest of the way to Wells was courtesy of the "iron topsail" bringing us to the Wells Bar an hour before high water. There was space on the pontoon, the harbourmaster taking the lines. During the evening there was a very heavy downpour. Lucky it had not come a few hours earlier. 67nm.

Day 90
31st July

Did jobs round the boat in the morning until the Baileys (elder daughter Hanna, husband Steve, grandchildren Izzy and Dicky) arrived at eleven. We spent a pleasant family day at Wells, walking to the beach, having fish and chips lunch and shopping before generally chilling out on the boat. Izzy and Steve left at about four o'clock to drive back to East Peckham. We settled down to await the morrow. The evening was enlivened by a recording of a Goon Show.

Day 92
1st August.
The quiet weather continued. Leaving Wells at 09.15 we soon crossed the bar and were heading east over a smooth sea in the company of “Pilet” a Rossiter Pintail sloop, also heading for Lowestoft. The gentle wind ensured that we motored all the way, but a fast passage close inshore brought us to Lowestoft shortly before 19.00. Close inshore by Cromer we witnessed the lifeboat being winched back up the slipway after a training sortie, but the most interesting aspect of the trip was a helicopter/lifeboat demonstration off Caister. Even Dicky got quite excited. Richard is now tall enough to be able to help hand sails, put out fenders and be generally useful about the boat. The Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club is welcoming and the amenities are excellent. A Dutch yacht rafted up on Pepsand. Two ladies with two little girls scampered over the foredeck en route to the clubhouse. This is an interesting building, having been built a hundred years ago in fine style. It has stood the test of time. The original plumbing in the gents' toilet is a masterpiece of Victorian pipework in copper and brass.

Day 93
2nd August
The morning was taken up with shopping, writing cards. As we were heading for Southwold, only 10 miles down the track, we could leave late. A heavy shower delayed things, and we also took the opportunity to refuel. The hop to Southwold was short and sweet. We arrived at about 16.00 and tied up by the pub and clubhouse. The day was improving. We braved the risk of a shower and walked over the fields to the town. A few food items were obtained. We came back to the harbour, had tea, and went into the club for showers at 19.00. Later in the bar we chatted with a lady member of the club, clearly still in the first flush of enthusiasm, having recently bought a boat. The night was quiet, except for Richard's snores.

Day 94
3rd August
An early start was imperative to avoid having to stay until the afternoon. We crept out at 06.00 on a still grey morning. The sea was like a mirror as we motored quietly into the tide past Dunwich, the atomic power station at Sizewell, Thorpe Ness and Aldeburgh. Here a wind started up which swung quickly round to south-west, and as we passed Orford Ness we were able to beat to windward on genoa alone, with the tide now beginning to assist our passage. Soon we were making over 5kt, and reached the mouth of the Deben about 3hrs before high water. This time the least depth was well inside the green buoy as we ran parallel to the beach into the river. Every time it is a different entry. Arriving at Woodbridge well before high water we had to wait almost two hours for a berth. Picking up a vacant mooring, we sat and sat. Then we were hailed, not by the marina on VHF, but by a voice from another boat, “Blue Scoter” from Conyer, whose owners recognised “Pepsand”. Some time later we were hailed again, this time by the owner of the mooring, who politely wondered if he could get back onto it. So we moved to another buoy just outside the marina entrance. Finally, as we were tucking into a much-needed meal, the call came. Tied up at last, we finished our tea before testing out the new ablutions block. This has been built to a high standard, and is well-thought-out. We plan to stay here for two nights, the better to enjoy the town, which is rather special.

Day 95
4th August
Wednesday gave us a pleasant morning in town. I failed to gain WIFI access, but used the library to clear e-mails and explain the problem on the blog. In Mrs. Piper's Café we had coffee and scones. Dicky went for the sausage roll option. A quick dash round the supermarket and butcher's set us up for the rest of the trip. We headed back to the marina for our lunch. Even as we finished, the rain began. However, Hanna and Dicky went over to the Tidemill Museum whilst I changed the alternator belt, which had begun to stretch. Then a siesta. We tried to catch one of the large eels which lurk in the murky depths of the marina, but to no avail. In the evening we walked up the hill to the King's Head for a very enjoyable meal. In the bar the oak beams are reputed to be some of the largest in the country. Then a quiet stroll by a different route back to the boat. Woodbridge has everything you could want: good rail connection; good shopping; good marina; good pubs and eateries, even a cinema close to the marina.

Day 96
5th August
I had planned to drop down the river and go round to Harwich before heading on for Brightlingsea, and, leaving at 08.00 on the tide, we began to do that. As we were crossing the Wadfield Ledge, the dulcet tones of Thames Coastguard announced the weather forecast. The outlook for the following 24 hours was not good, and promised a rough ride along the Swin in “wind over tide” conditions on Friday afternoon, so the decision was taken to use today's good conditions to get to the Swale, and possibly into the marina. The westerly breeze was enabling us to beat past Harwich at over four knots, and the neap tide was weak, reducing our speed over the ground by half a knot. This held until we reached the Swin Spitway and crossed into the East Swin, when the wind backed slightly. However we could motorsail on a track of 220 degrees to the SW Barrow buoy. Annoyingly, as we opened out the angle to cross the Estuary the wind dropped to nothing and then set in from the south. All the way from Walton we had been in the company of “Blue Scoter”, but here we pulled away as I wished to arrive before high water. In the end we arrived at the best time, one hour before high water, and were able to enter the creek, ploughing a few metres at the bar, and scraped into the marina, ploughing our way into a berth at 20.00. The meal that had been cooking since we came into calm water was consumed with gusto. Ingrid arranged to pick us up in the morning, and we spent a final night on board, in some slight discomfort, as “Pepsand” settled with a marked list to port. You win some.....

http://www.rnli.org.uk/

Down the East Coast

2010-07-26T20:49:00.018+01:00

Day 80
21st July
Early start. At shortly after 06.00 we crept out of Boddam and turned south, benefiting from the southerly tide and strong north wind. The conditions favoured a long passage to Eyemouth, some 95 miles and almost due south. Other harbours were either drying and therefore enterable only at or near high water, or unsuitable for yachts, like Aberdeen, Montrose and Dundee. The rain,which had begun during the night, was steady. Visibility was moderate at best, poor at times. But the wind was strong, f5, even f6 at times, and from behind. Motor sailing on genoa we made good speed, the boat speed hardly dropping below 6kt all day. The coast was soon lost to view, and we saw no other vessels until we were approaching the Firth of Forth. Just after 13.00 we were visited by a pod of common dolphin, which stayed with us for about 5 minutes. The rain had stopped, and the visibility gradually improved until we could see the coast from about Stonehaven to Fife Ness. The brighter weather approached from the north-west, but towards evening the gloom descended and we donned the oilies again. Eyemouth was well signposted by the St. Abbs Head lighthouse, and soon we were entering the brightly lit harbour. The yacht pontoon was fully occupied several times over, and we ended up alongside a Belgian yacht, tying up at 22.45. In under 17 hours we had come 97.5 nautical miles. A good trip.
Cocoa, nightcap and bed.

Day 81
22nd July
During the night the wind had risen, bringing more rain, but we were oblivious. Waking late and rising later, we found our way to the showers, and after a skirmish with the system Paul managed to get a hot shower. I failed, but was consoled by a good shave. We then paid for our stay and went into town. The co-op satisfied our need for groceries, after which we had a coffee and scone in a little café before returning to the boat. The wind had dropped to about f4, so we set out for Lindisfarne. Exiting the harbour was bouncy, but the swell was well spaced and we were soon out in deeper, quieter water. Once out , we set the genoa and switched off the engine, enjoying a fast down-tide reach to Holy Island. A fellow C.O.A. Member had offered us the use of his mooring here. When we rang him he told us that his boat was already on the mooring and that he was coming up later with his daughter. We therefore agreed to meet for an evening meal on Pepsand. As we came in to the harbour the sun came out, giving a pleasant evening after another successful sailing day. The harbour here is very well protected from all wind directions, and we anchored in shallow water, expecting to ground over low water, which duly happened.
The shared meal did not take place. As Paul was about to prepare the food, Steve rang. They had been held up and would not make it. He suggested they came over later for a nightcap. So Paul made a fine chicken korma instead. As it became dark we made out the shadowy shape of a tender being rowed out to us. Steve and daughter arrived and we had a jolly old time over a dram or two before they left us at a very late hour. They were planning to go north to Bass Rock to see the gannets. In the morning they had gone.

Day 82
23rd July
We were firmly aground, as expected. The inflatable took us to the pier steps, where we discovered the water was too shallow even for the dinghy. Paul gallantly took off shoes and socks and pulled the now much more buoyant dinghy the last few metres to the steps. The village is bigger than I had expected and is very attractive. We found the post office, which was closed, but managed to buy postcards nevertheless, using the honesty box. The ruined abbey came next, and then we found our way reluctantly to the dinghy and rowed back to the boat, now afloat and swinging to the anchor. This promised to be a good day. The wind was light, the sea smooth, and there would be much sunshine as a ridge of high pressure established itself over northern Britain. The day went exactly to plan. We motorsailed past the Farne Islands, past the huge Bamburgh Castle, Alnmouth and Coquet Island. En route we passed areas where there were millions of jellyfish. It was a smooth passage to Blyth, where Laura m et us at the marina and whisked Paul back to Frosterley. It has been a great fortnight. Thank you, Paul.

After they had gone I ate and then went to the Royal Northumberland Yacht Club. The clubhouse is in an old wooden lightship, last stationed at Calshot Spit. Bought in 1952, it has been incredibly well fitted out. The amenities are first class and the beer is cheap. The cosy bar was full, the atmosphere welcoming. Some visitors from Amble, who were rafted up alongside Pepsand, chatted with me until it was time for bed.

Day 83
24th July
The day began bright if not sunny, with a light southerly breeze. By now the diesel was running low, and as the club does not have a diesel pump I elected to go to Sunderland Marina thirteen miles south, on the way to Hartlepool. I telephoned and there was no problem. The marina was jammed full with boats because of the Sunderland Air Show. Approaching the harbour were motor boats and yachts of all shapes and sizes, anchoring offshore to see the display. Tanks full, and much moulah lighter, I came out and anchored in 8m. It was a good opportunity to have lunch. The show began quietly with helicopters from HMS Westminster which came out of the harbour five minutes before me. The Hawker Hunter was the star of the show for me, perhaps because of boyhood memories, Neville Duke, etc. By 14.30 the wind had increased and began to set up a chop. Time to leave. Hartlepool lay another fifteen miles south through a nasty wind-over-tide sea, but visibility remained excellent. Off South Shields it had been possible to see the Cheviots and the North Yorkshire Moors at the same time. As we came into Hartlepool Bay the wind abruptly veered to the south-west and the air was suddenly warm and smelling of land. As I came into the lock the gate shut behind me and in no time five motorboats and Pepsand were decanted into the enormous dock which forms Hartlepool Marina. Tying up at almost 18.00 I made a beeline for the office and showers. Feeling much better for being clean and shaved, I had a stroll round the waterfront. The bars and eateries were crowded. It was Saturday night after all. Much drinking, much shouting and much loud music. Not my scene. So back to Pepsand and supper.

Day 84
25th July
Waking early, I got up and made porridge for a change. The VHF traffic indicated that the lock was in action, so I joined the party. At sea by 07.00! The wind was very light, but Whitby is only 25 or so miles away, and we had all day to get there. High Water would be at 16.56 and you can enter and leave about four hours either side of high water. Once past the Teesport VTS area, the engine was switched off. The very light wind called for the cruising chute, and once deployed, it gave nearly three knots. By 14.00 the wind had died altogether, so the last few miles were covered under power and we came into a very busy and crowded Whitby to find that the bridge, long the bugbear of yachtsmen, was stuck, but thankfully in the open position. This simplifies access for the boating fraternity, but is causing problems for the traffic, and trade, I would imagine. A brand new amenities block has just opened, and provided an enjoyable shower. Reaching the Co-op just before closing time I collected milk, etc. and then went in search of fish and chips. Then back to Pepsand for a quiet evening. The laptop refuses to access the internet, and I don't know how to fix it. The next planned stop is Scarborough. Perhaps I can take it to a computer place there.

Day 85
26th July
Porridge again! I'm developing a taste for it. The tide will let me leave after 12.30, so there is plenty of time to try out the new laundry facility here. State-of-the-art washing machine and tumble dryer. All worked very well, and for £5 all my clothes are clean and dry. Early lunch and leave at 12.35. Very calm with virtually no wind. Nothing eventful to report. Scarborough harbour staff very helpful and friendly. Tied up at 16.30. Had shower, had tea, and lo and behold, the computer works the internet here. Perhaps it was the set-up at Hartlepool that was wrong. The weather is definitely more favourable, and although it rained briefly in the early evening, the winds seem set to help rather than hinder for the next few days.

The Moray Firth

2010-07-19T18:09:00.009+01:00

Day 77
18th July
A windy morning. As the car did not have to be back until 09.00 we were able to transport Birgit and Mogens to the station before taking it back. They were taking the train to Edinburgh before flying back to Denmark on Monday. When we got back to the marina Paul and I had a restful morning. The tide times meant we could not exit the canal until about 14.00. The lock gates are so heavy they have to have flotation chambers to take some of the weight. This necessitates a certain rise of tide, and the gates remain closed for two hours either side of low water. So after an early lunch we left the marina and moved down the lagoon to the sea lock and rail bridge. As soon as the water outside was high enough, and after a train had gone through, we left the canal and were back in the salt water. The weather was still windy. A force 5 southwester with occasional gusts was whipping up the sea horses, but the wave height was low. We motorsailed on genoa until we had passed the narrows under the suspension bridge at Kessock, and then sailed on genoa down the shallow Beauly Firth. Conditions made steering difficult, so we reefed the genoa down and used the motor. Once through the narrows by Fortrose the sea calmed as we entered deeper water. The wind dropped as forecast, giving a smooth ride. Passing inside the Riff Bank we were soon past Fort George and began the long haul past Nairn, the Culbain Forest, Findhorn and Kinloss to Burghead. Spectacular lenticular clouds filled the sky, and I could imagine the excitement at the gliding clubs. The sun came out, and as the wind gradually dropped it became warmer. The sea was by now quite flat, and we rolled away the genoa and motored to Lossiemouth in the calm, arriving at 21.15. As we passed Burghead Paul went below and got busy in the galley, creating a very tasty and filling Chilli con Carne containing red peppers, mushrooms, celery, onions. By 22.30 we were asleep in the very sheltered little east basin at Lossiemouth.

Day 78
19th July
In the morning, after a shower and breakfast we walked round to the harbour office to be greeted by the man himself. We asked about gas, and were directed to the filling station round the corner, where we obtained a new bottle. We left at 10.30 and were able to motorsail through the rain (after an hour) to Whitehills. The harbourmaster, Bertie Milne, was listening on Channel 14 and met us at the entrance, directing us to an empty berth. When he heard that I was raising money for the R.N.L.I., he was extremely generous. This marina is tight, with only 32 berths in the tiny harbour, but it can be entered at any state of the tide, and affords perfect shelter. The facilities are first class, and we especially liked the crew room with its exchange library and comfy sofa: an ideal place to wait for the washing machine and dryer to complete their cycles. This would have been an ideal marina for a longer stopover, but time is not on our side now. The village is compact, but has a hotel, a bar, post office, general store , chippie and wet fish shop. Here we bought smoked haddock and two portions of Cullen Skink, a kind of fish soup. After a meal of stuffed lap of mutton we walked down to the “Cutty” for a pint of McEwans'. Then to bed.

Day 79
20th July
An early start, necessitated by the tide. The currents here are not strong, but it still helps. We were able to motorsail to Fraserburgh with a groundspeed of over 6kt in very calm conditions and bright sunshine. Then, once we had rounded the north-eastern tip of Aberdeenshire the tide turned and held us to 4kt groundspeed. Even so, we completed the trip to Peterhead in 7hrs. On the way we saw porpoises twice and one dolphin. Very close to Peterhead Harbour is the little harbour of Boddam. Here we tied up at the quayside at low water. The entrance to Boddam could be awkward in strong weather as it is narrow and surrounded by skerries and reefs, but there is plenty of water, and the harbour is very sheltered. On the way in we saw two seals sunning themselves on the rocks. Boddam seems to be a dormitory suburb of Peterhead. A few small fishing boats use the harbour. At the south end of the village is a lighthouse on an island with a fine modern bridge linking it to the land. Tonight Paul prepared a smoked haddock crumble. It did not linger on the plate.

http://www.rnli.org.uk/

The Caledonian Canal

2010-07-13T18:28:00.012+01:00

Day 71
12th July

A most interesting dream was shattered at 08.00 by a shout and knock from without. The friendly lock-keeper wished to know what our plans were. He said we could enter the sea lock presently. We went through at 09.00 and tied up in the first basin where I was able to pay for the licence. We were advised to join two other yachts in the first canal lock immediately, and go through Neptune's Staircase, a chain of seven locks, since the next chance would be in over four hours' time. So we did. By the time we were through all seven locks we felt happy with the system. At the top is the canal station of Banavie, where we happily filled up with water, tying up alongside the shower block. After a cold lunch Paul and I resealed a stanchion base to put paid to a small leak where rain had been penetrating the forepeak locker, then we pumped up two new fenders that I had snapped up half-price at Oban, and we all enjoyed the splendid showers: ample hot water, simple controls, and free to all canal users. By now the day was warmer than we had yet had in Scotland, with little showers. We just chilled out. No time pressure to get to Inverness.
Day 72
13th July
No rain, no wind! We made an early start and had breakfasted by 08.30. Then Birgit and Mogens walked back to Corpach along the road to do a little shopping whilst Paul and I lifted the floorboards and cleaned the bilge. Whilst Paul was busy inside I washed down the decks and cockpit and spliced some better rope onto a couple of fenders. We finished and had just settled down to a cup of coffee when the wanderers returned with almost everything on our wish list. It was about 11.00 when we set off up the canal, passing through the locks at Gairlochy, where we tied up for lunch. Some two hours later we entered Loch Lochy and were amazed to see the depth sounder go right down past 100m. The weather was sultry with a gentle breeze from the north-east, but the loch produced no waves at all and at 1200rpm we managed 4kt. The mountains here come right down to the water's edge. Ben Nevis, with its patches of snow, receded. Surprisingly few boats came the other way, and at about 15.45 we tied up on the waiting pontoon outside Laggan Locks. This is a double lock, but the first seems to be permanently open. We had a cup of tea whilst waiting for the southbound flotilla to exit, and then we went in. The lift was only two metres this time and soon we came out and tied up on the pontoon at 16.15. The weather looks as if it will rain before long. On the opposite bank is a converted barge which is a pub. No doubt we will investigate before long.
And we did, but not before Paul served up a superb meal of pasta with a tomato based sauce and added tuna. The pub merited our attention. Down below in the barge was the cosiest of bars, very tastefully fitted out, and serving excellent Orcadian ales amongst other good things. We hit the sack at about 23.00. Before tea we had wound the boat so that it faced north. During the night the wind did indeed turn northerly. The inevitable rain therefore did not drive in.

Day 73
14th July
We woke to the familiar sound of pouring rain. After a late breakfast we decided to push on. Paul and I braved the elements whilst Birgit and Mogens stayed dry and plied us with coffee. There was not far to go to Fort Augustus. The nine-mile trip involved two swing bridges, one at each end of Loch Oich, which were expertly opened at exactly the right time for us, and locks at Cullochy and Kytra. As Loch Oich is the high point of the canal, we were now coming down in the locks, which is a much gentler experience than going up, since the swirling water is escaping away from, and not into the confines of the lock. As we approached Fort Augustus and its five locks we decided to moor up above the locks and to descend them tomorrow. By now Paul and I were somewhat chilled, and hot mushroom soup did us well for lunch. We both donned vests, however. In the afternoon Birgit and Mogens went out and walked into town whilst I updated the log and blog, and Paul slept. After another fine meal by Paul, he and I went into the Lock Inn and chilled out over a pint of local ale. Then to bed.

Day 74
15th July
Raining again!! We refused the offer of locking through at 08.30 and settled for “about ten o'clock”. Birgit and Mogens went for supplies whilst Paul and I washed up and did little tasks. The weather forecast was dispiriting. There is an apparently endless string of depressions lining up to pass over Scotland. Finally at nearly eleven we entered the chain of five locks and went down to the swing bridge, There were spectators, mainly foreign tourists. By 12.00 we were through and into Loch Ness, apparently the only vessel for miles. The light rain continued until about 14.00. Paul knocked up a very tasty salmon salad which we consumed whilst under way. The wind from the south-west began to pick up and soon we had the engine off and sailed on the genoa. Urquart Castle looked interesting but covered in tourists, since the pleasure boats stopped there. As we passed we heard a piper strike up: another reason to continue sailing. Shortly after 17.00 we came to the lock and bridge at Dochgarroch. Here we had to wait for another yacht to catch up, but soon we came through and, passing the dreary-looking Caley Marina we tied up before the bridge at Tomnahurich.
By now the sun was out, so towels were hung out to dry. Paul prepared a fine dinner of Spanish omelette and I made a bread and butter pudding. Great stuff!

Day 75
16th July
There were no facilities at Tomnahurich Bridge, so we were pleased to go through to the locks and Seaport Marina. A delightful young lady came out of her warm dry office into the monsoon to unlock the electric point for us. Eventually the rain stopped and we got up courage to walk down to Inverness, about half a mile away. Here we enjoyed the covered market, a kind of Victorian arcade, and had coffee before finding the tourist information office. They were well organised and before long we were able to book a car for the next day. The weather slowly improved,a and on the way back to the boat we stopped at a pub on the west bank of the River Ness and noted the menu.
Paul prepared a meal of chicken breasts in white wine. We looked forward to a Highland tour.

Day 76
17th July
No rain! After breakfast I walked down to the car hire office and brought back the car, a Vauxhall Vectra. In unaccustomed sunshine we drove east past the airport to Nairn and were able to look out across the Moray Firth towards the Black Isle. The marina at Nairn is sheltered , but only accessible around high water, so we decided against coming there. Our next stop was at Grantown on Spey, a fine market town, not unlike Moreton in the Marsh, with a long straight, wide main street and parking in parallel behind green islands. Here we found a super little bakery cum coffee shop and stopped a while. Mogens enjoyed a Scots Pie whilst we had scones.
Aiming for Aviemore we came to Boat of Garten, which was hosting a steam rally at the Speyside railway station. Here we saw signs for the RSPB Osprey centre at Loch Garten. This was a must. We were in luck. At the viewing centre we were able to see an adult bird sitting a few metres from the nest, in which were three fledglings. The CCTV was superb. Eventually we tore ourselves away and returned to the pub by the station for a sandwich lunch of some quality.
Aviemore is crowded, full of mountaineering and ski schools and shops. We did not stop, but drove up the mountain road to the funicular railway. This took us to the top of the ski slopes. There is a shop, restaurant, exhibition and viewing gallery. The exhibition is excellent. Outside at over 1100m it was icy cold and blowing a gale, so we fled to the restaurant and had a cup of tea whilst enjoying the panorama. It was even possible to see the Moray Firth to the north.
Returning to the car we drove down the mountain and then north-west over a pass into Strathnairn and eventually to the end of Loch Ness at Dores, then back to the pub in Inverness, The Waterfront, for a fine meal, before returning to Pepsand.

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http://www.rnli.org.uk/

The Scottish Monsoon

2010-07-06T21:12:00.011+01:00

Day 62
Saturday 3rd July
A day of some achievement. The excellent chandlery provided the right gear oil and it did not take long to drain out the old and refill the gearbox with the new. A box was found, more or less suitable for housing the chart plotter when brought inside. Steve had warned me of the possibility of excessive wear on the multi-pin plug from my constantly connecting and disconnecting it. So now it can be permanently connected. For good measure I varnished the box before screwing it to the bulkhead directly above the sink. There was an exchange library in the laundry where I found, hiding amongst sundry bodice-rippers and sci-fi works, Samuel Butler's “The Way of all Flesh”, which I settled down to read, whilst the wind howled and the boat rocked and creaked. The creaking, alarming in its way, comes from the mooring lines as they come under tension.
Roy came over for a chat as I was taking fuses out of an old switch panel. He is a professional classical musician. He knows Hull, since his father was for a time organist of Holy Trinity and music teacher at one of the grammar schools, Kingston High School. When he mentioned being a chorister at King's, Cambridge, I asked him if he had met my friend from school, Michael Boswell, who had taken a choral scholarship there at the same time as I did the same at Magdalen. He had. When his voice broke he came back to Hull and spent some years at Hull GS. So we reminisced about the East Riding Youth Orchestra and Choir. His mother still lives in Swanland, just to the west of Hull. Another interesting coincidence.
The weather will not let up. Tomorrow's forecast is dire, promising more gale-force wind and rain.
Day 63
Sunday 4th July
They were right. After a stormy night the loch is blanketed in grey fog. The wind has dropped from force 8 to force 5 with occasional nasty gusts. Patience is a great virtue, and it is needed now. Fortunately there is no time pressure on me to get to Oban, but the exploration of this lovely coast is being severely curtailed. The five-day forecast shows a possible window of opportunity to go north on Monday, but early, before the next trough comes through. Ardfern being a BT Openzone hotspot, one can escape boredom by surfing the net, and there is a serious book to read. After lunch came a tidy up and out came the Pledge. The saloon looks a lot more cared-for now. After tea Roy came along, and we went to the pub. As we chatted over a pint of “Tickety-boo” (whoever thought up that one?!) in came our French friends, and the pace of conversation slowed as the language changed. Another pint, and then back to the French yacht for a nightcap (Bowmore single malt). Hit the hay at gone 11pm. The wind is dropping.
Day 64
Monday 5th
Woke to a silent boat. The wind was now a gentle breeze. Was the opportunity there to get round the corner to Craobh Haven? At the mouth of Loch Craignish is a well-known tidal gate, Dorus Mor, where there can be severe overfalls, especially at spring tides. I reasoned that the force 3 south-westerly would not work up a bad wind-over-tide rough water, and if it did, I could spot it before committing myself, and come back to Ardfern. So we left at 07.40 and motored down the loch into the wind, which rose to force 4 at times, but the water was flat. At Dorus Mor the white water could be seen from well off, but it was nothing like as bad as the chop one gets in the West Swin in a strong southwester, and with the tide pushing one through, it would only last a few minutes, unlike in the Thames Estuary, where you may have to endure it for hours. So, adding a few revs, we turned into the channel. A motor cruiser came the other way and showed no deviation from course, and no great splashing. The tide took hold and whisked us through at 8kt groundspeed. A heavy shower proved to be more of an inconvenience than the overfalls. The deck remained dry. Once past the islets of Reisa an t-Struith and Coiresa and clear of Dearg Sgeir Rock, course was set for Craobh Haven. Engine off. Reaching at 5kt on the genoa we soon arrived at the marina and tied up at 10.15.
This is a thoroughly modern marina created by building breakwaters between several little islands and reefs, very much like the harbour at Verdens Ende in Norway. The facilities are state-of-the-art. I wasted no time in getting showered and shaved. Contrary to information received, there appears to be no Wifi cover here. Tomorrow's forecast is very bad, so I shall be here for at least two nights. Spent the afternoon reading and sorting kit. The boat is quite presentable now, and I think I know where everything is.
Someone who clearly has no real interest in food, nor in my welfare, has suggested that this blog contains too many references to what I am eating. In my defence I can only say that all my life I have had a healthy interest in food as can be observed in my far from spindly frame. Those who find the culinary references not to their taste may skip over them in favour of whatever philosophy they may prefer.
Tonight it was black pudding from Islay with bacon and eggs, washed down with a mug of Yorkshire tea. So there.
Day 65
Tuesday 6th July
The weather is as bad as forecast. This morning was devoted to washing in the marina laundry, which is well organised and modern, though the dryers are rather expensive. Now all my kit is clean, if not quite dry. I have rigged up a drying line inside the saloon, since the Scottish Monsoon prevents any outside drying. The wind is southerly, about force 5, with heavy gusts from time to time. There has been very little movement here today. The little shop in the so-called village is not very well stocked and had no washing powder, so I used a tube of hand-wash gel, and it seemed to work.
The marina here was created from a rocky shore with some islands by an entrepreneurial group some years ago. There is now a well equipped marina with chandlery, workshop and sailmaker, a pub/restaurant, a shop, tea room and about thirty little terraced houses, built when, or since the marina was created. Shelter is very good, and the depth allows access at all times. The place is about 40 minutes by road from Oban. As might be expected, most of the houses are holiday lets or second, even third homes. Local young people cannot afford them. So in weather like this the place is deserted and dreary. What makes this place is its location right in the middle of possibly the best cruising area in Britain.
After a light lunch, the details of which I shall omit out of consideration for others, I did little jobs round the boat and sewed on yet another button. Tonight I plan to visit the “Lord of the Isles” pub and eat. I need cheering up. Tomorrow's forecast is not nice. In the shop I picked up a book about an American who sailed back to the USA in a leaky wooden boat. We have got as far as the Azores.

The rain came on very hard as I was thinking of going to eat, so I stayed in and cooked sausages with potatoes and broccoli. Later it stopped for a while, so I went over, and found they had Wifi, so the blog got updated and e-mails sent. The “Lord of the Isles” is pleasant, open plan, and the TV, whilst showing the dreaded World Cup, was muted. About twenty-five people were in the bar.
Finished the book. The boat sank!!

Day 66
Wednesday 7th July
The gale drags on. The marina is so sheltered there are no waves, but the wind can still rock the yachts, which it did, all night. This morning, taking advantage of a dry spell, I exchanged a gas bottle when when going to the wash-room, and then went to the shop for food items and the paper, obtaining a Jack London paperback at the same time. Soon after I came back to the boat the rain resumed, even heavier, and the wind increased. Probably the cold front coming through. Tomorrow's forecast is not much better. Now it's becoming critical, but as Oban is only 20nm away I can do it in four hours, and could leave here as late as lunchtime Friday and still be well in time to meet Birgit and Mogens from the train. I'm beginning to understand why the Scots drink so much whiskey! After lunch I filed and sanded down the top corner of the perspex sheet that replaces the top washboard in bad weather. It has been in constant use since leaving Ireland and it did not quite fit. This was of little importance until Craobh, where they gave me a berth facing north-east, so that the strong south-west wind began driving the rain in. Not any more. Later in the day a cold front came through and it cleared enough for me to leave at 17.00. Motoring down Loch Shuna the sea remained quite flat, and at the tip of Luing the heavens opened yet again. Pepsand is one clean boat!! Progress downwind northwards up the Sound of Luing was rapid, and even some tidal eddies helped. In the narrows where the depth decreases significantly the adverse tide increased to about three knots, but not for long, and soon we were making very good headway. At this point, past the lighthouse on Fladda, the shelter from the islands was gone, and a sizeable swell came in. The boat surfed down the waves at top speed, registering a groundspeed of nearly 8kt. Very soon we entered the sound of Kerrera and by 21.00 were tied up alongside a training ship belonging to the Sea Cadets. 24nm in 4hrs dead. In the night it blew over 40kt, but I am used to the noises now, and slept nonetheless.
Day 67
Thursday 8th July
After breakfast took the free ferry to Oban and wandered around, enjoying the walk and the fact that it was not quite raining. Had lunch of fish and chips and returned to Pepsand to finally sort things for my guests. The Frenchmen who had been at Ardfern were now at the marina, and they invited me to lunch tomorrow, Friday. The skipper and owner of the boat (Ovni 36, aluminium hull) is a travel agent, and spends three months every year sailing, mostly to the north of France.
Back on Pepsand I read and prepared for what I hope will be Sunday's cruise to Corpach, at the start of the Caledonian Canal, some 25nm north from here. In the evening the French and I went to the little bar at the marina (in a tent, and not very warm) before retiring to Pepsand for a nightcap. The wind has now dropped completely. Silent boat, and a good night's sleep.
Day 68
Friday 9th July
Spent a quiet, rainy morning doing little preparations. Moved the boat from the fuel pontoon to a permanent berth, but not before filling up with diesel. Soon it was time to visit the French. The lunch was splendid: smoked salmon on a bed of salad with chopped tomatoes, then cassoulet (pork and beans). It was all delicious. My main aim now is to stay awake to catch the ferry to Oban to meet Birgit and Mogens.
I did, their train came in on time, and they are now esconced on Pepsand. They brought better weather. During lunch we noted the passing of the cold front. The wind went right round to the west, and a series of little squalls heralded a great brightening of the sky. By the time I took the ferry to Oban it had stopped raining and blue sky could be seen. There was some time to kill when they arrived, so we went into the Caledonian Hotel and took tea in a little room overlooking the bay. They had been travelling since 5a.m.. The ferry back was very full. We stopped in the moorings for a party to transfer to a large yacht. They transferred an impressive amount of food. Once on board I busied myself preparing them a meal, whilst Birgit unpacked. They will use the forecabin in the bows. Paul and I will sleep in the saloon. After tea they went down for a snooze whilst I downloaded the Skipper's Guide to the Caledonian Canal and had a read. Birgit and Mogens plan to fly back from Inverness in ten days' time, so no transfer problems, and we may be able to explore Mull after all before making for Fort William and the canal.
Day 69
Saturday 10th July
A quiet day with little wind. We spent a quiet morning on the boat. After lunch we took the ferry to Oban and had a big food shop at Tesco. Then Birgit and Mogens went looking for a camera shop to buy film whilst I waited for Paul at the station. The train was on time, but the fresh fish shop was not open, so we went back to Tesco for something for tea. We met up at the ferry and decided to eat at the bistro by the marina. The meal was excellent, we were treated by Paul. Well done, Bro!
A convivial evening on board followed, and we were late to bed. Still blowing a gale and raining, but we slept well, helped by a tot of Salvador. Thanks, Laura.
Day 70
Sunday 11th July
Woke to more howling in the rigging. The rain and wind are relentless. Clearly we are not going to Tobermory in a hurry. Breakfast over, we chatted and played dominoes, drank coffee and found ways to charge up mobiles from the 12v system, with complete success. Later we listened to a tape of the King's Singers. Not long after that finished there was a knock, and the French connection was re-established. Jean-Marc and Pierre-Luc were back. Yesterday they had left for Tobermory, but when the wind gusted over 40kt they decided to seek shelter at Dunstaffnage Marina, about five miles north of Oban. Now they had just arrived back here.
After lunch Paul, Mogens and I went to Tesco for a final shop before possibly leaving if the weather lets us. The time between the sailings just sufficed for our purpose. By the time we were back on Pepsand the sun was out and the wind had dropped considerably. By four we had paid for the berth and left. Water had been getting low, but at Oban Marina there is no mains water. They are dependent on spring water and collected rainwater. This year been exceptionally dry in Scotland, and they could not supply us. So with very little in the tanks we set off for Corpach and the canal.
Once we were clear of the fairway we set sail with one reef in the main and did well at first, but gradually the wind dropped so that we shook out the reef, but by the time we reached the Island of Shona we had to use the engine. Then tide, except for the Curran Narrows, was very slight, and there was virtually no sea, so Paul gallantly went down and prepared a splendid meal of baked fish with several vegetables. As we approached Fort William we could see the lower slopes of Ben Nevis, and even a stubborn patch of snow clinging to a steep cliff. The light was still good as we tied up to the waiting pontoon at 22.00. Straight to bed. We were all tired, especially Birgit, who went to bed long before we arrived. A noisy trawler disturbed the peace at midnight, but after that we enjoyed a most tranquil night.

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North up the Sound of Jura

2010-07-02T22:33:00.007+01:00

Day 61
Friday 2nd July
The weather forecast is improved for today. Southerly F4/5, occ 6. We can live with that as we wish to go north. The people in a Colvic Atlanta next door but one are doing the same, so we'll go together. Islay has been very good. It casts a spell. Perhaps because the people are so relaxed and welcoming.
We left at 11.00 and motorsailed out inside the Island Texa and past the three great distilleries of Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. There was very little tide and the sea was not rough. We kept station past the Sound of Islay and the Small Isles but at the lighthouse on Skervuile I decided to pass to starboard as the water was deeper and I felt the tide would be more helpful. It worked, and Pepsand left the larger boat somewhat behind. Heading for Ardfern Yacht Centre, my track diverged from theirs, and we radioed our goodbyes as they kept to the western side of the Sound of Jura whilst I slanted across to the eastern, deeper side. It certainly gave me better water, and they were gradually left behind. By 15.00 the tide was helping us to maintain well over 7kt groundspeed. The wind was not as strong as forecast, being mainly f4 with occasional f5. Alright by me. A front was clearly overtaking us, and at about 16.00 I donned wet weather gear and prepared for rain. This did not happen until we were in Loch Craignish and approaching Ardfern, and it lasted only a few minutes. Passing Crinan we saw several yachts coming and going. At Ardfern the staff had knocked off by the time we arrived at 18.30. Once tied up, a meal of roast pork, etc. was prepared and consumed . As I was washing up, Roy arrived. He was on the opposite pontoon at Port Ellen. As I took his lines he said the Frenchmen who were next to me there were also on their way. They arrived about half an hour later. After a shower and shave I was delighted to find that Ardfern is a BT Wifi hotspot, so e-mails and blogging are possible. The forecast for the next few days is not too good. I am pleased to be within easy striking distance of Oban.

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Points north: Glenarm, Ballycastle, Port Ellen

2010-06-30T17:37:00.009+01:00

Day 55
26th July
After breakfast we showered and sorted ourselves for the trip to Glenarm. Before leaving we topped up with diesel. The weather was exactly as forecast, giving a SE3/4. At 11.00 we set off and as soon as we were out of the harbour we cut the engine and set the chute, then the main, getting an encouraging 5+kt. 45 minutes later a fog bank descended, reducing visibility to about 400m. The wind increased, so chute down, and over 4kt on the main. By now the tide was working in our favour. By 13.00 the fog cleared to bright sunshine. The ferries coming out of Lough Larne were not difficult to see, and they did not come nearer than a mile. The wind was now S4/5 but the sea remained slight. Lucy was not feeling too good, so it was just as well that we came into Glenarm and tied up at 15.20. This is a very good little harbour with first-rate pontoons and a very friendly and helpful berthing master.
The village is suffering economically. The harbour was built to serve the quarries, but now they are closed and nothing has taken their place. The council refurbished the harbour and established the little marina, and that is fine, but it is saddening to walk through the village with its boarded-up shops and pubs. Even the Post Office has gone. There is nowhere in the place that serves food, but there is one well-stocked general store. We shall therefore eat on board. Pork and leek sausages with all the trimmings.

Day 56
27th June
There was no point in leaving early today, and so we got up and breakfasted, then walked over to the castle entrance, a few hundred metres. Here we found to our disappointment that the gardens would not open before midday, too late for us. So back to the marina we went. At the office the harbourmaster, Billy McCauley, had just brought in his super model lifeboats. Pictures were taken.
Eventually we said goodbye to Billy, the Black Guillemots, and Glenarm at about 11.00. The wind was as yesterday, southerly and force three. As the tide was still foul we stayed inshore for a while, and after about an hour the breeze stabilized and we made progress, getting better as the tide began to change in our favour. The looming hills of the Mull of Kintyre grew closer and as we turned west towards Ballycastle we could clearly make out Islay, some 25nm to the north. Approaching Rathlin Island the tide was pushing us along at a fair speed. An approaching shower and squall led me to roll in the genoa and start the engine in order to outrun the wet. It worked. A ground speed which touched 10kt at times allowed us to round the headland and reach the quieter waters of Ballycastle Bay without being rained on. The harbourmaster answered his phone and allocated us a berth. In no time we were in. The harbour is slightly larger than Glenarm and is just as well appointed. There are no resident BG. The harbourmaster was in his office with his wife and three little daughters. We were made to feel very welcome. Formalities over, we had a late lunch of fish and chips. There is no Wifi, and G3 is so slow it cannot even load web pages. Perhaps later we can seek Wifi coverage in a pub. We tried, but no go.

Day 57
28th June
A warm morning. After breakfast we walked to the main part of the town about a half mile from the beach. Some shopping was achieved before we came back to the boat. We did not wish to leave before 12.15 because of the tide, so we went to the little café overlooking the marina and had a coffee and bacon bap. At 12.15 on the dot we left Ballycastle and headed north into the Sound. The wind promised a good ride, and immediately we could reach north on the genoa at 5kt. As ever, it did not last, and soon we had the main up as well, but could maintain 4kt without engine. This lasted only for another hour, after which the “iron topsail” came into play. There were some slight overfalls as we passed the tip of Rathlin Island, but as the day progressed the seas became smoother and we had no difficulty maintaining 5+kt. At times the tide was adding another 2kt. The visibility, which had been good when we set off gradually deteriorated as a front moved in, and by the time we were approaching Port Ellen it was down to under a mile, with drizzle starting. Even so, the trip took exactly five hours for nearly thirty miles. At Port Ellen we could motor straight into a berth facing to windward. Chicken stew for tea. Then Lucy washed up whilst I cogitated and wrote up the log. No Wifi and no G3, but there is a Cybercafe in the town. Later in the evening we went into the Ardview Inn and enjoyed the local ale and the company of one or two local characters.

Day 58
29th June
A dull start to the day, and cool. Some of the houses had smoke coming from their chimneys. A foray to the shops revealed a very good hardware shop in an old chapel. The weather began to improve, and it was decided to hire a car and drive round the island. Before long we were booling along towards the Kildalton Cross dating back to around 8ooAD. On the way back we stopped for coffee at the Ardbeg Distillery restaurant. The island roads are good, and of course the traffic is very light. Parking spaces are plentiful and free. On our way through the Oa we saw a pair of eagles, but they did not stay to be photographed, much to Lucy's chagrin. A short stop at the Machrie golf links was followed by a visit to Bowmore, the island capital. Youngsters were swimming round the pier head, but wetsuits were the preferred garb. Leaving Bowmore we pressed on to Port Charlotte where all the houses are identical in size and plan, having been built by a philanthropic clergyman. He must have been a wealthy vicar! Then on to Portnahaven and back. We stopped to visit the ancient burial place of the Clan Donald, and then to admire a small herd of Alpaca near Bruichladdich, and by Black Rock found the memorial to the crew of a Sunderland flying boat who crashed there in 1943. During the day the weather got better and better and by mid-afternoon you could see across to the Paps of Jura in the north. Coming back to Port Ellen we took the high road, which follows an almost straight course from Bridgend. Back in town we decided to go Indian, followed by a quick one in the Ardview Inn. Then back to Pepsand to do our homework!

Day 59
30th June
Strong easterly winds forecast, so sailing not an option along a rocky lee shore. It was still possible to keep the hire car for another day, so we did. Lucy had been studying Haswell-Smith's excellent guide to the Scottish Islands, and discovered interesting places for us to visit. First we went north to Port Askaig and were able to see the fearsome tide rip in the Sound of Jura. From there we went as far as the distillery at Bunnahabhain, from where we drove to the visitor centre at Finlaggan, the ancient administrative base of the Lords of the Isles. Then back south to Bridgend, where we bought sandwiches at the Spar shop, consuming them at a place overlooking Loch Indal. The RSPB reserve at Gruindal came next. Here we saw a hen harrier, a deer, several bored herons, swans, ducks various, then on to a very ancient stone cross by the ruined church at Kilnave. The wind had been increasing all day, and on the way back the surface of Loch Indal was extremely frothy. It was going to be a noisy, if safe night on the pontoon at Port Ellen.
And it was. A deep depression over the western Atlantic is sending a series of fronts across the UK. Winds here are from force 4 up to force 8 (full gale) for the next day or two, so although Lucy will no doubt be able to fly to Glasgow and on to Birmingham I will be staying here for some time. It will be an opportunity to do some serious cleaning around the boat and organise things for when the others arrive.

Day 60
1st July
With Pepsand rocking around by the pontoon and the wind humming in the rigging there was little point in getting up early, so we lay abed till gone nine. After breakfast I wrote up the log. When Lucy went for a shower she met Scott, the hire car man, and gave him the key back. He had been patiently waiting on the quay. But folk here are not in a great hurry. When the ferry docks, usually twice a day, the place livens up a bit for a while, then the tranquil pace reasserts itself. The ones rushing around are tourists like us. There are two French yachts here at present. On the road we met Dutch,and German cars, and in the pub were a couple from Finland.

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Lucy arrives

2010-06-25T19:45:00.003+01:00

Day 54
25th June
The morning was spent shopping for groceries and getting ready for Lucy. Her train from the airport came in at 13.20, and as soon as we came to the boat we lunched. The oil change was accomplished, and I checked the impeller for good measure. Later we walked over to the old harbour, now disused, and back into town where we enjoyed coffee and scones. They are preparing some kind of sea festival for the weekend. Ominous ranks of large black loudspeakers fill one with dread. Why the cult of electronically boosted volume? In their defence, the organisers have laid on a brass band as well. But we shall miss it all, leaving before it all begins. Our next port of call will be Glenarm, some 25 miles up the coast. The forecast is good, with a tail wind. By setting off at high water we will get a helpful tide all the way.

Donaghadee, Bangor, Rose and Black Guillemot

2010-06-23T19:16:00.007+01:00

Day 52
23rd June
The best time to leave is at slack water, taking the start of the ebb down the narrows to the sea. The tide tables gave this as 11.30 today, so there was time to go round the town again and shop for groceries. Also took this photo of the futuristic lifeboat house at Portaferry.

Nearly ran out of coffee! That would be serious. At the butcher's bought liver and pork and leek sausages. The helpful berthing master came round at about ten, and was paid. We chatted for a while before he went off to tend his crab pots. At the appointed time the tide went slack, and we were off, heading into a fair breeze that augured well for later, when it would be possible to turn north and sail. Passing Seagen, I noticed a rib in attendance with a diver down. The Marine Biology Dept. of Belfast University are involved with the project. The current got progressively stronger as we neared the sea, and at the bar there was a nasty chop, but at 6kts over the ground we were through it rapidly and could set sail to the north. The breeze was very good at first, but it gradually fell away until it was necessary to use the engine off Portavogie. The sea became even smoother, and so we were able to maintain a water speed of 6kts with a helping tide raising our groundspeed to nearly 7kts. Some porpoises passed going the other way, but nothing else of interest happened. Donaghadee Harbour was very quiet, and I tied up at the quay near the lifeboat at 16.15.
In the town there were the usual boarded up premises and property for sale. With the emergency budget and the cuts to come I fear for this province. The nearest hotel to the harbour offers Wifi access, so I look forward to updating, etc., later tonight.

And so, fortified by liver and onions, I took self and computer to the hostelry, Pier 35, and updated whilst drinking a good pint of Bass. Back on board long lines were rigged fore and aft to allow for the 3m rise and fall of tide, and then I turned in. What is it about harbour walls that attract the drunken youth? My rest was rudely broken by loud screaming from the females and profanity from the males as a group of perhaps six young men and women, well in drink, approached along the pier. There ensued a game of "I'll do it if you do", which went on for an age until one and then several took the plunge. Having got it out of their system, and no doubt feeling the cold, they slowly departed, the high-pitched squeals of one young woman fading into the distance, to my relief. The wind had dropped to nothing, the boat lay quietly alongside, and slumber took over.

Day 53
24th June
Up and away. The long lines rigged last night worked well. Getting out was straightforward: the wind kept the boat straight in reverse as we backed off from the wall and out into the harbour mouth. Then round through the well buoyed Copeland Sound to Bangor. From the Sound it was possible to see the Isle of Man, the Rhinns of Galloway and the Mull of Kintyre. In under two hours we tied up in Bangor Marina. This is big, modern and well run, but not expensive. A nice change!
The shower was very welcome. Bangor seems prosperous and busy. In the marina is a tame seal, Rose by name, that will eat out of your hand, provided you are offering fish, and a colony of Black Guillemot which are habituated to people, and provide an amusing diversion with their bright red legs and white wing flashes. They look and behave like miniature penguins. The rest of the day was spent mooching round town and sorting out an oil change for the engine, which was due.

Strangford Lough

2010-06-22T15:16:00.003+01:00

Day 49
20th June
After breakfast wrote cards and posted, did some food shopping, came back to marina and bought an Admiralty chart of Strangford Lough. Paid the kindly berthing master and did the passage plan for today. Strangford Lough narrows are every bit as bad as Carlingford, and you cannot enter against the tide. From information available in the almanac the best time to enter seemed to be just after the tide turned, about 3hours 30min before High Water Belfast. To arrive at the entrance for that time one would leave Ardglass not later than 14.30. so I busied myself with lunch and little tasks round the boat before leaving at 13.50. The wind as forecast was light northerly, but with increasing east in it so that after about an hour the engine came off and it was possible to beat steadily up the coast. Arriving at the entrance on time I put the engine on to give greater steering control in the turbulent tide. This was just as well , since the wind did a rapid volte face as we came into the swirliest bits. At times we did ten knots over the ground, so the whole experience did not last long. In no time we were in the great open spaces of the lough. The River Quoile seemed a good place to anchor, so we headed for Killyleagh and turned up the river, anchoring in about 5m at 16.50. It was now very warm and what little wind was from the north. Pork chops in barbecue sauce kept my attention for a while. No Wifi, no G3 coverage. The anchorage is quite picturesque, and once the motor-boaters retired for the night, very peaceful. This is what we come for.
Day 50
21st June
After a very quiet night left the anchorage at 10.15 and moved upriver as far as the Quoile YC moorings, then came back downriver and out into the lough. Here the wind picked up and it was possible to beat, then reach, then run north at about 3kt on genoa alone. The day gradually warmed up. There were few yachts out to enjoy the easy conditions. Here the shallows are marked by perches which are often difficult to spot at distance, so a sharp eye is required. The main yacht clubs are all on the west side of the lough, and when I had had enough sailing, I turned west and went in behind Conly Island and anchored at 14.00 in under two metres of water. The bottom here is mud. There was still over an hour to low water, but the boat did not touch. During the afternoon a buzzard circled overhead, a lone yacht came in and moored, but nothing really disturbed the peace. Murphy's Law!! Just as I typed that, a loud motor boat came along and began water-skiing practice not very far away. Fortunately, it did not last long. There ensued a good night.
Day 51
22nd June
Woke at 07.30 and breakfasted. Left the anchorage at 08.10 and sailed out past several islets and into the lough. The wind was light and flukey, but permitted sailing. When it steadied and strengthened it was from exactly the direction I needed least, so on with the “iron topsail” and direct to Portaferry. The berthing master was very helpful. It turns out that he is an RNLI crew member on the local inshore boat. Slightly larger than Ardglass, the town has more shops, but no G3 cover. In the tourist office two very charming ladies thought the hotel would give me internet access. They also pointed me to the Seagen Exhibition upstairs. This concerns a 1MW tidal power prototype that has been installed in the narrows here. No-one at home at the RNLI station. Bought bacon and milk, had a coffee and came back to boat.
Wrote up cruise log and then took laptop into town. The barber's was unoccupied, so I took the opportunity to have a trim. The barber thought the pub up the road would have Wifi access, and he was right. At the Fiddler's Arms I managed to clear the backlog of e-mails and update the blog. The Smethwick's Brown Ale is very good. Still no-one in at the RNLI. The tide was right out when I came back, and there was no current under the pontoon. When berthing, the current against us more than compensated for having a tailwind. Coming in here with wind and tide both from the south would be very fraught. The ferries have very powerful engines to cope with the tide, which can get up to more than 7kt at springs.

Up the coast to Ardglass

2010-06-22T15:04:00.004+01:00

Day 43
14th June
07.45 is a good time to wake up. After a healthy breakfast of porridge I went shopping in Malahide. The internet café does not open till 10.00, so Starbucks had the honour. The e-mails and blog were soon updated and before long I was back on the boat. Least depth in the channel and at the bar was 1.8m. The northerly wind soon rose to f4 and so motoring it had to be, but not for long, as I had in mind to go into Loughshinny and anchor. Winds are scheduled to fall very light in the night. However, once there it became apparent that the anchorage, though sheltered, was severely compromised by pot markers and very shallow. Not worth the risk. So on past the Skerries to Balbriggan, a little fishing harbour some twenty miles north of Malahide. Coming close, I could see the masts of a fair sized ketch lying behind the wall, and , on entering is was clear that the best place was alongside her. “ Ulysses” is about 45ft, a long-keeled wooden boat flying the Stars and Stripes. Out of Jackson Mississippi, she is crewed by several tall bearded young Americans who made me very welcome, taking my lines and helping to tie up. The promised sunshine now burst forth. It was very warm all of a sudden. Time for shorts and a cup of tea. About an hour after arriving Pepsand took the ground without fuss, and upright.

Day 44
15th June
Woke at 09.45!! Must have needed a long sleep. Had breakfast, did jobs and watched as a fishing boat came in, using the deep channel through the middle to get to his berth. It was followed by a group of seals, clearly used to scraps. Before long Pepsand began to stir, and as soon as she floated I made ready to sail. The American crew all came up to say goodbye, as did New Zealander Matthew from his boat. Once out of the harbour and tidied up it was clear to me that a sea breeze had set in, so both sails were deployed and a very acceptable 4kt was achieved. The sea was slight, with no swell, visibility was excellent. Little of interest happened through the day until the entrance to Carlingford Lough. The cruising notes are very clear about the narrows here. You cannot enter against the tide, which can reach over 6kt. Unless conditions are very quiet, you only enter at slack water. Well, I was ahead of the tide and slack water was over an hour away, but the sea was flat, and although a tide rip was apparent as you approached, it seemed safe to have a go. If it was not possible, all you had to do was anchor in a quiet spot and wait for an hour or so. As we came into the buoyed channel our groundspeed gradually slowed to 2kt, though we were doing 6kt through the water at 2000rpm. This was maintained until we came abreast of Haulbowline lighthouse, when our groundspeed rose by a knot. As we came further into the lough the speed gradually improved, though at no time was there less than a knot of tide against us. And the weather was perfect. What it must be like in rough conditions I would not like to experience. The bright sun made spotting Carlingford Marina difficult until we were almost at the Nr. 18 buoy, which is the recommended turning point. Earlier in the day, before leaving Balbriggan, I had spoken to the marina, who had said, “Just find a vacant berth and see us in the morning.” There were plenty of vacant berths to choose from, and we tied up after 34nm at 20.15. Job done.

Day 45
16th June
Another good night. Up at 07.30 and after breakfast was relieved of 66 Euros by the berthing master for two nights. Another Countess 28, Lania, was on the next pontoon. It is not on the COA list, so I posted them the leaflet. Carlingford Lough is a delight scenically, with the Mourne Mountains on the north side and some pretty craggy stuff to the south. Granite. The marina is not so pretty. The location and the pontoons are very good, but the amenities are limited and somewhat scruffy. However, the water and electrics work, and Carlingford village is only a ten-minute walk. It is well worth the effort. Whilst the large drying harbour is less than enticing, the village itself is very good, with all the shops you could require. Boasting two castles and a ruined monastery, Carlingford is picturesque. There are many pubs and eateries, parking is free, and I imagine the place gets rather busy in the tourist season, which should be beginning. Stopping for a coffee in a charming tearoom cum delicatessen, I wrote postcards before sightseeing. Inevitably I made for the Yacht Club, a modern building by the harbour, but they were not at home. Several parties of excited primary schoolchildren were enjoying themselves on the water under the tuition of the local Outdoor Pursuits Centre. You could hear them from the marina! “Listen guys, listen guys!” came across clearly as the tutors attempted to instruct. Why do little girls scream?? Then back to the town to shop. By now the midday sun was rather fierce, and dark glasses and an ice cream completed things. Then back to the marina for a little rest and lunch. The afternoon was spent doing jobs and dozing. Spam fritters for tea. This marina is dead.

Day 46
17th June
Radio 4 long-wave reception is reasonable here, so breakfast of cereals with the Today team. Some serious passage planning through the morning and an early lunch. At 13.00 I left and sailed slowly up the lough doing between one and two knots in the gentlest of sea breezes as far as Warrenpoint, where there is a RoRo terminal and busy quay serving the coasters that come in daily. The town is unremarkable. The council pontoon is very useful. I tied up and went shopping. No possibility of obtaining Calor gas. No more Euros, and back to good old pounds. The intention had been to spend the night there, but a large crowd of noisy teenagers diving into the water off the pier, whilst not a threat, were reason enough to leave. I therefore sailed back down the lough and anchored off Carlingford in calm and sunny weather. Very peaceful. But suddenly the stillness was broken by shouts. Thinking that something was amiss, I went on deck only to be greeted by two swimmers who, thinking there was no-one on board, were holding the boarding ladder to have a breather. “It's OK, we're not pirates!”,grinned one, and soon they set off towards the harbour, splashing along in their wetsuits. This really is a lovely spot. Pity about the marina. Later in the evening the wind rose to a good force 5. As a precaution I set the GPS anchor drag alarm to 50m and noted transits either hand. A rocking, rolling night was in store. Nevertheless I did manage to get some sleep. Before going to bed I had worked out a plan of action to leave Carlingford at or near low water, when the tide rip would present less of a problem. Forecast is for more Nwf4/5 possibly 6!!

Day 47
18th June
Woke to find the boat in exactly the same position, so no dragging. Overcast and still breezy, but decided to go for it. Leaving at 09.00 I reasoned it would take an hour to get to the narrows where the current would be strongest. Slack water should be at about 10.20. Once in the channel, it was possible to sail on half genoa at 3kt, but getting considerable assistance from the tide. It worked out well. The race was gentle, though by no means steady, and we emerged from the buoyed channel into the calmest of seas. Once out of the lough, the wind dropped to a mere f3, and we could set the main and beat along the coast at about 4kt. In Dundrum Bay I saw a large dolphin or small whale not more than 200m off the starboard bow. Probably a minke. Sadly, it did not hang about. A mackerel succumbed to the lure, but otherwise the trip was uneventful. Yet there were more yachts about than has been the case so far. All going south and flying spinnakers. At 16.00 we were approaching Ardglass. Neither harbour nor marina answered my VHF calls, so I went in anyway. By now the skies had cleared and I entered the marina in bright , hot sunshine. Formalities were soon over and I hit the town. By happy coincidence a new supermarket had opened yesterday only a couple of hundred metres from the harbour, and Browne's hardware shop was able to supply me with a new Calor gas cylinder. To the south of the harbour entrance lies a golf course and scenic walking. Perhaps tomorrow I may take a look.

Day 48
19th June
Got up very late, and after breakfast and a shower and shave (the arrangements here are excellent) walked down to the South Harbour where the larger fishing vessels are lying. Here I found a post office and bought cards. The fishermen's cooperative runs a good chandlery here, and after buying a couple of small items I chatted with the salesman, who was most enthusiastic about the Caledonian Canal. He had once fetched a small fishing boat round from North Shields and gone through from north to south. The fishing here is still a viable industry, perhaps because the port is all-tide, all-weather.
Then on up the road to the golf course, which, whilst not in the same league as Wicklow, is very scenic with wide views out to sea and along the cliffs. It was possible to make out the Isle of Man through the haze. In the village is a very old tower, built towards the end of the 15th Century as a kind of fortified house. In the centre of Ardglass is another “castle”, with towers and battlements picked out in white. Clearly of far more modern build, it is now a nursing home. On down the hill, and here I remembered that the stocks of “Daddy's special lemonade” were getting low, and picked up a carton of Carlsberg from the off-licence. There are not as many pubs and bars in Ulster as in the Republic, perhaps because of the Presbyterian influence, but there are still more than one is used to.
Back at the marina I had lunch of dressed crab, bread and butter, washed up and rested. Later it occurred to me that the fresh breeze and sunshine would be good for drying, and so another wash was undertaken, the cockpit then being festooned with my personal bunting. No Wifi nor G3 connection here, but you can't have everything. It is odd going to bed in bright daylight at 10p.m., but we are a long way north-west of Kent with its Greenwich Meridian.

Goodbye Dublin, hello Malahide

2010-06-14T09:45:00.001+01:00

Day 41
12th June
Spent a lazy day resting and preparing for tomorrow. The forecast is good for going back across the Irish Sea. Betty made us a tasty late lunch of stewed steak and potatoes followed by tropical tinned fruit. A bottle of red helped to liven the proceedings. In the clubhouse preparations were going on for a party. A large family was celebrating the return from Australia of one lady, and another was having a 40th birthday. At about 7 we went over and had a pint, having to endure the televised World Cup and England's inglorious start. The room gradually filled, and by about 9 we said our goodbyes to Dave Fleming, the courteous and helpful bar steward, and made our way back to the boats. A 9.00 start was agreed. The disco was surprisingly muted from our berths and we had a good night.
Day 42
13th June
The day dawned bright with a westerly wind, as forecast. After breakfast we said our goodbyes to one another and left. Geoff and Betty have been super company. I hope their return trip to Holyhead goes smoothly. At least the wind is in the right direction. We motored and motorsailed out of the Liffey, and at the fairway buoy I peeled off to port and headed north whilst Quadriga and crew tracked east towards Anglesey. It should take them about ten hours.
Going north was supposed to be easy, and so it was for about half an hour. Then the wind became very light and variable, but even so, a good tide was helping me along towards my initial destination, Rogerstown Inlet. But by 11.00 it was on the nose and rising to force 4. Then the coastguard came on the radio with a strong wind warning for all sections of the coast. Wind would get up to force 7 everywhere, with heavy, possibly thundery showers. Not the kind of weather to be finding an anchorage in a strange place. So Plan B was put into action and we scooted into Malahide and its modern marina where a lanky full-bearded Australian took my lines. Having tidied the boat I found the office and paid for one night, then walked into town. It is conveniently close to the marina and is about the size of Hornsea or Tenterden. All the eateries were open, and I had a coffee and a bun in one, and found a little Spar shop to buy bread. Not long after I returned to the boat it came on to rain. Very black and gloomy, but no fireworks. Time to write this log and chill out. The marina uses Spectrum for internet services, just like at Conyer, and as their tariffs are astronomical I will not be using them. There is a little internet café in town that I will try in the morning.

A Gaol, a garden and Dublin

2010-06-11T20:18:00.004+01:00

Day 37
8th June
Went into town after breakfast and found an obliging internet café where I could update e-mails and blog. From there a pause for coffee and postcards. Next the museum. An interesting collection of memorabilia from Arklow and its seafaring past. Then Aldi, and back to Pepsand. It has stopped raining! The farmers certainly needed the rain, but it is good when it stops. When the tide turns we leave for Wicklow.
Left at 15.00. Almost as soon as deep water was reached the mist came down, reducing visibility to less than a mile. However, the tide kicked in with a vengeance as a groundspeed of over six knots was achieved. Gradually the low cloud lifted until after an hour as Mizen Head was passed, Wicklow Head was quite clear, about five miles to the north. The rest of the passage was without event, and I tied up in Wicklow just after six. The northerly wind persisted, but the East Pier gave adequate shelter. About an hour later contact was made with Geoff and Betty on Quadriga, and they came in not long after, having had to motor most of the way from Wales. We had a cuppa on Pepsand before walking into town, eventually partaking of chips at an American Diner. Then bed. Although there was some movement in the night we all slept well.
Day 38
9th June
Up at nine. Breakfast, then a trot into town with Geoff and Betty. From a nice coffee shop we walked round to the gaol, which has been turned into a tourist attraction. This provided and entertaining and interesting hour, after which we walked south out of town past the golf club and onto a cliff-top path which led back to the harbour. The golf course is somewhat spectacular. The remains of a Norman castle crown the little headland that shelters the harbour from the south-east. At the lifeboat station we saw the weather forecast. Northerlies for the time being. If it gets too lumpy by the pier we may have to move into the river for shelter. Back on board Quadriga, a Countess 33 cutter-rigged sloop, Betty provided us with lunch of tuna rolls and a welcome cup of tea. The sun came out. The rest of the afternoon was spent doing jobs, tidying and snoozing. Tourism can be tiring.
Geoff went into the Tourist Office and asked about somewhere to eat. The lady directed him to a particular pub. As we were leaving the boats to go there we were privileged to observe the RNLI crew conducting a sea survival and life raft handling exercise. The rib stood by whilst several crew, ladies included, leapt into the harbour from the pier. The resident engineer meanwhile played a hose on them, presumably to simulate heavy rain, or perhaps just to try to put them off. Leaving them to their training, we made our way down the quay and over the bridge to the pub, where we enjoyed a good feed in pleasant surroundings. It was nearly ten when we came back. In the meantime the wind had got up, and with I the sea. The boats were pitching and banging against the pier. Clearly we were not going to get any rest if we stayed there. Advice was taken from the RNLI crew still at the station, who agreed that we should abandon the pier and bring the boats into the river and tie up alongside what turned out to be a survey boat. So the three of us took Quadriga round, tied up, and then Geoff and I walked round to fetch Pepsand. As we came off the bridge onto the quayside road, a car drew up and one of the lady RNLI crew gave us a lift back to the pier. Talk about service! Geoff and I then brought Pepsand across and tied up alongside Quadriga. There ensued a peaceful night. Though we could hear the wind and surf, not a ripple disturbed the peace of the inner harbour, and we all three enjoyed a good night's sleep.

Day 39
10th June
Still blowing hard, so Dublin must wait. Up late, leisurely breakfast, eventual wander into town to coffee shop, where the waitress was one of the formation swimmers of last night. Over coffee we agreed to take the bus to Ashford, just a few miles away, and visit Mt. Usher Gardens, which had featured on Monty Don's BBC television programme recently. The bus dropped us a few yards from the gate. By this time it was nearly one o'clock, so we had a light lunch of soup and roll before going round. The gardens are informal and feature permanent plantings rather than formal beds. We saw many exotic plants and venerable trees. The garden lies astride the little River Varty, in which we saw tiny trout, and at one stage I was lucky enough to see a kingfisher. Finishing by the tea room we went in for tea and scones, though Betty was seduced by a fruit concoction that looked delicious.
The bus came on time, and soon we were back aboard. Geoff called me at about six to invite me over, and pointed out a seal that was swimming slowly by. I managed to grab my camera and get one shot before it dived. Later Betty provided a tasty supper on Quadriga. We decided to go for an early start to take advantage of the considerable tide on the flood going north. So early to bed. Another very good day.
Day 40
11th June
Woke before the alarm, had breakfast and readied the boat. Dipped the fuel tank as a precaution. Still five gallons, plus one jerrycan: more than enough to get to Dublin several times. As expected, the current was still gently flowing downriver, which enabled us to swing the boat on a stern line, greatly easing my departure at 06.30. Quadriga followed immediately, and it was a bright sunny and calm start to the day. Aeolus decreed otherwise, however, and less than an hour later we were punching into a force 5 northerly, right on the nose. In this situation all you can do is find a compromise between speed and comfort. At about 1800rpm the boat stays dry, but speed is lost. The following tide was a boost, but it also brought about the dreaded “wind over tide” situation and a nasty short chop which had the boat pitching about with speed fluctuating. But visibility was very good, and we had literally all day to get there, so no sweat. Had the wind been a few degrees further west or east and we could have sailed with more comfort, but it was not to be . The nearer we came to Dublin, the kinder became the conditions. The last part, coming into the river Liffey, was perfectly peaceful. Use of the mobile phone alerted the Poolbeg Marina, where we tied up and immediately refuelled both boats. The marina is in fact a club, and staffed by a rota of club members on a voluntary basis. The duty member could not have been more helpful, though he had some difficulty finding tokens for the showers. Eventually we were all three showered and feeling human again.
Soon we made our way into Dublin by means of the new tram system, which works very well indeed. Like all big cities in summer, Dublin was somewhat full of foreign tourists, and we joined the merry throng for a while, until the need for sustenance demanded to be dealt with. In a typical Irish ambience, not entirely improved by the screening of the opening World Cup match in South Africa, we made short work of a fine lunch of Irish bacon, cabbage and mash, washed down with a suitable beverage. Replete, we wandered down O'Connell Street to the river, crossed the bridge and went into the park-like campus of Trinity College, a quieter atmosphere than the hubbub of the traffic. It was not long before we found ourselves in Finn McCool's Café in the Tourist Information Centre, resting and enjoying a welcome cup of tea. At this point I think all three of us could have easily dozed off. Then back to the tram and the marina, and a rest.

http://www.rnli.org.uk/

On to Arklow

2010-06-08T10:13:00.007+01:00

Day 35
6th June

Woke at 8. After breakfast walked to post office with cards and took a few pics, then back to boat. The weather is good for the trip to Arklow, some 50nm. By leaving late morning there would be help from the tide all the way, although it is only neaps. I left at 10.00. There was plenty of water at St. Patrick's Bridge, a shallow channel to the north of Little Saltee Island, and the wind was initially helpful. However, it gradually weakened until by Wexford I had rolled in the jib. Just after one o'clock the main flapped across as a sea breeze set in, giving good progress. A seal popped up behind us, then, curiosity satisfied, it disappeared again. Motor-sailing at 6kts we continued up the coast until at about 16.00 a light rain began, and the breeze died. The lull only lasted about half an hour, and the sea breeze came back, but weaker. By now the tide was adding well over a knot to our groundspeed as we sailed through the Rusk Channel and along past Courtown and Tara Hill. A German flagged gaff schooner passed, motorsailing the other way. After another little shower Arklow came into view, and we tied up in sunny, calm conditions at 18.15. I did as my friend in Wexford suggested and tied up at the RNLI pontoon. The number he gave me only produced an answer phone. Must make my peace with them tomorrow. Now for the rest of the chicken stir-fry!
Lovely stuff. The washing up was done, and I had settled down to write this up when a call from the pontoon brought me on deck. It was Brendan Dillon, the lifeboat 2nd coxswain. I began to make my apologies for tying up to his pontoon, but he was all smiles and made me most welcome. Living locally, he had seen Pepsand and came over to make sure all was in order. He then offered to show me round. I took a photo of him and his daughter Emer on the lifeboat. He ruefully showed me the damage that some intruders had recently inflicted on the boat with an axe in a vain attempt to obtain something of value. The rear door window panels, made of what looked like 8mm thick glass had been shattered, rendering the boat unfit for service, since it would not necessarily be able to self-right with water pouring through the door. By great good fortune, a similar boat is being refurbished at a boatyard not far away, and they were able to borrow a serviceable door from that boat for the time being, so the boat is fully serviceable again. Tomorrow is a bank holiday here, but I do not intend to move for a day or two. Brendan told me there is a maritime museum over by the marina, and that should be interesting. It is in, or beside a supermarket which I could easily access by dinghy. Since the lifeboat station is locked, I cannot get direct access to the town from the pontoon.
Well, I had just got my head down when there was a clatter of boots on the gangway down from the station, and it became clear that the crew were on a shout. A small boat broken down needed to be towed in. In very short order the seven crew were on the boat, engines started, mooring cast off, and away. Very slick. The lifeboat throbbed slowly out of the dock, but once in the river the acceleration was impressive. The twin MAN diesels could be heard for a very long time.

Day 36
7th June
Up not very early and cooking breakfast when Jimmy Tyrrell, the Hon. Secretary, came over to have a chat. An Irish Times photographer had come to take pictures of the vandalism. He told me the casualty last night was a small motor cruiser that had alternator problems. They were only five or six miles down the coast, and were brought in quickly. Last night's time elapsed from call out to leaving the pontoon had been five minutes. Not bad!
Later I walked into town. It is clear that Arklow has seen better days. Many empty business premises give the place a neglected and dispiriting air. Across the bridge is a new shopping centre and Aldi and also a modern housing development around the marina, but that accentuates the impression of poverty on the western side. The dock has many laid-up fishing vessels, adding to the gloom. However, there is a bandstand and two splendid town churches, one Catholic, one Anglican. 19th C Romanesque and Gothic respectively.
I wandered back to Pepsand and had lunch as it set in to rain for the afternoon. Of course, it is a bank holiday here! Then jobs. Lubricate the sea toilet pump; glue a wooden board that was threatening to come apart; enter some MMSI addresses on the VHF set. Then snooze; then tea. The weather outlook is not good for tomorrow, but there is a maritime museum and internet café to visit.
Wicklow, the next planned port of call, is only 15nm north of here, and with the strong tides here, it will not take long to get there, perhaps not much more than two hours.

http://www.rnli.org.uk

Over to Ireland

2010-06-04T15:19:00.003+01:00

Day 32
3rd June
Woke early and rose at once. Water was lapping round the boat and it would soon lift. At 07.15 we floated. The anchor came up cleanly and we were off, gingerly skirting the other yachts in the anchorage and feeling our way across the shallows to the main channel. The wind was as forecast: light easterly. Threading our way between the moorings we soon found our way out to the open sea. Another yacht left ahead of us, but took a slightly more westerly heading than us. Presumably they were heading for Cork or the western Irish coast.
Within an hour the sails were set and engine switched off. The wind gradually rose to F5, and the genoa wes reefed a little as the boat romped along at over 6kt. During the day the wind went round more to south-east and fell to F3. Very little happened. Sea birds seen were many, including petrels.
At 21.30 the engine was started , not that it was needed for propulsion, but rather for battery charging, since the current drain with lights, chart plotter, autopilot and instruments would have severely depleted the service battery. With the engine on, the fridge could be run as well. Just after this, there was a splashing, and we were surrounded by dolphins. Too many to count, they were common dolphins, coming within inches of the hull and playing in the bow wave. They stayed for some minutes. I tried to get photos, but with little success. There was little else to relieve the boredom of the night. Half a dozen fishing vessels, a couple of freighters, all some distance away, and a very well illuminated ferry or cruise liner passed. Nothing within a mile. Eventually the dawn came, the night clouds evaporated and another hot sunny day began. Well before Kilmore I handed the main , and as I was sorting that out, George threw a wobbly. It was just a fuse, and it was soon replaced, but it brought home to me just how much a single-hander relies on the autopilot. The Saltee Islands came and were passed, and a salmon net was avoided at the very last minute, but eventually at 09.30 we tied up safely at Kilmore Quay. 138Nm in 26 hours. Quite a trip, even with favourable winds. It was worth waiting for the right day. Head down!!

Tresco and Bryher

2010-05-31T18:58:00.009+01:00

Day 29
31st May
Another calm night. Woke at about 7.30 and after breakfast got ready and rowed over to the shore. Leaving the dinghy definitely above the HW mark, I made my way along to the quay and caught the ferry to Tresco. This is a larger, more populated and more developed island. Its character has been shaped in recent times by the growth of time-share properties and a heliport. New Grimsby, on the west side, facing Bryher, boasts a very well stocked store and deli. The great number of different cheeses on display give a fair indication of the yuppification of the place. But I had not come to disapprove of what some would call progress. My goal was the Abbey Garden. There was the usual NT style gift shop, and a good cafeteria. First coffee, then in I went.

I shall not attempt to do justice to the place. You have to see it. 150 years of skilful and dedicated work have created something special. High point was, when sitting down for a moment, I saw a hobby zoom past. Even the sun came out. The interesting collection of ships' figureheads held my interest for some time, then it was the cafeteria again and a pasty for lunch. I tried going round again afterwards, but you can only take so much, and somewhat punch-drunk I walked out and along quiet footpaths to the north side and back towards New Grimsby. Here I enjoyed a quiet half hour in the New Inn, and a fine Cornish pint. Onwards and upwards, over the brow of the island to Old Grimsby,which boasts the island primary school. As it was half-term there was no-one there, but use was being made of the playing field. A footpath led uphill to the north and this I followed to the spine of the island. Fine views would have been forthcoming, but the weather chose to deteriorate so much that I simply pressed on, very much aware that I was unsuitably dressed. A somewhat wet and bedraggled sailor trudged into New Grimsby. At the pier is a very useful waiting room, and here I spent the next hour or so reading from the stock of books thoughtfully provided, and waited for the ferry back. Two ladies arrived with a huge stack of luggage and five children. They were camping, and moving from Tresco to Bryher. Very brave. But they cheerfully asserted that it was no worse than the Lake District, and I believed them. Once on Bryher, I strode out rapidly to try to restore some warmth to my chilled person, and it was not long before I was back on board. A quick change of clothes and a hot soup did the trick and restored me.

Day 30
1st June
Woke to more rain. Why get up early? Then a shaft of sunlight illuminated the hatch. The rain had stopped. Whilst making coffee I looked out, and, as if by magic, saw the wall of mist and gloom moving off to the east. Within a few minutes Hugh Town was bathed in sunshine. The rest of the day was cloudless and warm.
Chores done, I rowed over and walked to the pier along the beach. People were about in some numbers. At the shop I got a stamp. The lady serving told me there were some eighty persons on the electoral roll. A stone's throw from the store I came across a little bar/café. A family was drinking in the garden at the front. Upstairs was the café, where I joined half a dozen others for a coffee. Maidstone prices on the tariff. A couple held us all in thrall with a wooden tower game in which you take turns at removing pieces and adding them to the tower. Eventually the husband triumphed, and we could all relax.
Making my way to the north along a clear footpath I climbed to a high point before coming down opposite the two castles that guarded New Grimsby Sound, one built by Charles I, the other by Cromwell. The sea was still rough from yesterday's wind, and the breakers smashing on the rocks were dramatic. Took many pics. At the northern tip of Bryher Shipman Head is separated from the island by a narrow chasm through which the sea was frothing. Even here on the windswept headland there are masses of flowers, especially thrift, in huge masses. Heathers and low-growing honeysuckle abound. From here the path led along the west side, and where the cliffs were eroding the nature of the strata was clear to see. Overlying the granite is boulder clay and moraine from the last ice age. More dramatic pictures of Hell Bay. Not hard to see how it got its name, as it was like a washing machine. Then back along the path pas a previously unseen but apparently well-appointed campsite to the handful of houses called Southward and a little shed café. Inside was clean and bright. Several groups were having lunch. I followed suit with a jacket potato and pot of tea. Very generous, well presented, and the same price you would pay as at home.
Back to the beach, a chat with Mike , who was under his boat scraping the keels. I lent him my new spade, and later he walked over, the tide still being out, and had a cuppa on Pepsand. It occurred to me that the weather would be good for drying, so I did a wash, hanging it all out in the rigging. Now everything is clean again. Good for the hands, too. Now the water was lapping round the boat as I lazed and read the history of the Tresco Abbey Gardens. Still not a cloud in the sky. What a day!!

Day 31
2ndJune
A quiet day spent resting up and getting ready for the trip to Ireland. After breakfast I walked to the Fraggles Safe and had a coffee before going to the shop for a stamp. Back to the beach and a chat with Mike who invited me for a meal on his boat. He is a vegetarian, so it should be different. Later I went back to the shop and bought some red wine to take over. The shop is remarkable in the scope and standard of its wares. Mike said later that the lady owner, who bakes the cakes and pasties, is about to retire. I hope someone as good takes her place. In the afternoon I made full passage plans and did final preparations. The forecast is holding and it should be good, though 140nm is a long one and could take 30 hours.
The tide was nearly in when I rowed over to Mike at 6. We ate in the cockpit. Salmon fish cakes. Delicious! It got chilly when the sun became low in the sky, and we retreated into the saloon. Charlie is such a well-behaved dog. Mike is a good conversationalist, and time went very fast. I rowed back to Pepsand well fed and at peace with the world.

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The Scillies: Bryher

2010-05-30T19:00:00.003+01:00

Day 26
Friday 28th May
Forecast quite good to get to Scilly. Light southerly wind. I motorsailed all the way, taking exactly seven hours. There was little sea and visibility was very good. Porth Cressa is a lovely anchorage and handy for Hughtown, but the wind started to get up, and soon the boats were rocking and rolling. All the yachts cleared out. My nearest neighbour suggested Green Bay, on Bryher as being most sheltered, with the added benefit for bilge-keelers that you dry out on the sand over low water, thereby guaranteeing a still night. It took an hour to sail over and re-anchor. There is G3 coverage, too. So all is well again.

Day 27
Saturday 29th May
As predicted, it blew mightily in the night, but sitting high and dry gave me a good night's sleep. Woke early and as the boat lifted, I set the anchor drag alarm, but I need not have bothered. The wind veered about 90 degrees in the early hours as the front passed, but this is a sheltered place.
So a lazy late rising was in order and I dutifully rose at 09.30 as soon as the boat dried out.
After a hearty breakfast it was time to explore, and donning wellies, I waded through an inch or two of water towards the shore, meeting my friend and guide of last night, Mike, another livaboard, on the beach. As we chatted a tractor drove onto the sands and began raking for cockles. We passed the time of day for some time before going our separate ways. I found a dirt track from the beach leading uphill past cottages with delightful gardens, and found the pub. Called Hell Bay, it was not what I expected. It is basically a motel without cars, very yuppy, and staffed by what can only be described as “beautiful people”. Not a hair, not a freckle out of place. There is even a golf course, so you can imagine the clientèle. I was able to order a coffee and read the newspaper, and found a very good little guide book. The views here are amazing. It puts me in mind of Bohusland, on the west coast of Sweden. Granite crags rising majestically from the sea. Only here the climate is so mild they seem to be able to grow anything. Whilst I read the cricket report from Lord's the heavens opened. A good sign: the cold font must be here, and it would soon be sunny again. The shower was brief and presently I was trotting down the track to the post office and shop, which was amazingly well-stocked. Here I got a pasty, bread, milk and tomatoes and a very useful little spade, intended no doubt for the construction of sandcastles, but well suited for digging in the anchor. As the wind was still veering westerly I hauled the anchor round more to the west and dug it in. The sun was now out, but the wind was still quite strong. Apparently this bay is the best shelter in the whole archipelago. Mike said he would go over the charts with me and show me the best anchorages. He intends to “neap” his boat, a Westerly Consort, and carry out maintenance on the underwater hull. It is now spring tides, so he will be high and dry for a fortnight.

Day 28
Sunday 30th May
Dull drizzly day. Cheered myself up with a full monty breakfast, then put the dinghy in the water and got ready to hit the big time. The notice by the quay said there would be a ferry to St. Mary's at 10.45. I bagged up the accumulated rubbish and packed a folding brolly, then rowed to the shore, leaving the dinghy up past the high water mark, as I thought, then set off along the track to the quay. I overtook a family going the same way and fell into conversation with the father. They are spending a week's holiday here, and come here regularly. At the quay a ferry came in from Tresco and went on to St. Mary's, so on I got, the only passenger. It took about fifteen minutes to cross the sound.

Hugh Town is no place to be on a wet Sunday. Most of the shops are shut, and as the place is about the size of Headcorn, the sights are soon taken in. Visibility about half a mile when not raining, less when raining. The brolly was in action from the start. Coffee was called for, and I think there were more people in the pub than in the rest of the town. All the tables were taken, but there was a small annexe to the rear where I found a place, and wrote postcards whilst eking out the cappuccino. Cheaper than in Maidstone. There is a limit to how long you can make one coffee last, and all too soon I was out in the drizzle. Because of the spring tides, low water would prevent the return trip to Bryher before three o'clock. The sensible thing to do was to have Sunday lunch somewhere. I lit upon the Pilot's Gig Restaurant. The place was almost full, a good sign usually, but perhaps the weather was playing its part. There was one table left. When it came, and promptly, it was excellent. Quite the best broccoli and Stilton soup I have ever had; a fine roast lamb with 6 veg; apple pie with cream and a pint of Boddington's, followed by coffee. Two more postcards were written. The room began to empty. One waitress brought her own lunch out and began to eat.
Calling the other lady over I enquired about Ted and Kate Pearce, some friends from way back who were thought to have retired here. The waitress did not know them, but said she knew someone who might, and spoke to an elderly couple opposite. They waved me over. It turned out that they were friends of the Pearce's, and brought me up to date. They had always had a cottage on St. Mary's, but when they retired could not get planning permission to enlarge it, so they ended up in Marazion. Ted had passed on about five years ago, but Kate was still very much alive . They gave me her address and telephone number. And it was nearly time to get the ferry back. On Bryher I picked up some new potatoes from a farm stall and made my way back to the boat. Mike had clearly been working hard on the hull and keels of his yacht. He invited me in for a cuppa, and we fell to yarning about boats, harbours and motorbikes. The lapping of water informed us that the tide was back up, and we suddenly thought of my dinghy. When we looked, it had drifted off and was about 50 metres away. There was no wind, and it wasn't going far. We quickly launched Mike's tender and he rowed me out to it. Then Murphy's Law kicked in, and a gentle zephyr drove the inflatable back to shore! One of life's little tricks. It was good to row out to Pepsand and change into dry clothes. Later I rang Kate and we had a good talk.

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St Ives and St. Michael's Mount

2010-05-26T16:42:00.014+01:00

David , based in the Hamble, is also doing a circumnavigation. In the evening John and I strolled into town and had a beer in the Admiral Benbow. This is really a restaurant with a small bar, but dispensing the best Cornish ales.

Day 23
Tuesday 25th May
Following a suggestion by the harbourmaster I took the train to St. Ives. The train journey was short, and cheap, and very scenic. In no time I was exploring St. Ives. Many mainly German tourists were filling the narrow streets. The whole place was beautifully set off in the cloudless weather. Having walked from one end to the other and sent postcards I partook of cod and chips in a little joint calling itself the Seaview Café The food was of the very best, and served with the utmost cheerfulness by a highly tattooed young lady. Then on to the pier and a chat with an assistant harbourmaster, who pointed out the moorings and advised against coming to St. Ives in any but the calmest weather. Point taken. Then back to the train and Penzance. Stayed in tonight and got cruise log up to date, cleared e-mails, etc.
Day 24
Wednesday 26th May
After breakfast strolled into town and did a little shopping. Posted cards, and returned to the boat. A couple in a Westerly Consort had come back from the Scillies and tied up outside David. He meanwhile had decided to walk to Mousehole, some five miles down the coast. John has a problem with oil levels in engine and gearbox on his yacht, and has been running the engine to try to establish what is happening. He invited myself and the young couple on “Supernaut” to lunch at a pub at the top of the town. Here we had a very good repast of ham, eggs and chips. Then strolled back to the harbour for the last time before moving Pepsand out to the outside of the raft prior to leaving. The Scillies freighter moved out first and then it was time to go. I shall have good memories of Penzance and the people I met there.
The short trip across the bay took only half an hour . Tying up at the little quay was not difficult with a light east wind blowing the boat on. A fleet of little ferries was discharging those German tourists next to the berth. A good trade. To my delight, there is good G3 coverage here, so the blog will be kept up to date.

Day 25
Thursday 27th May
A good night. The boat lay alongside with no banging, and as on the bottom again soon after breakfast. As the gardens and castle did not open before 10.30 I walked over the causeway to Marazion and bought postcards and stamps. It was shaping up to be another hot sunny day. When I came back to the island there was still time to kill, so I had a coffee in the restaurant, then paid up and went in. Of course it is spectacular, and quite a flog to get to the castle level. The accommodation is surprisingly cosy. I could happily live there. The décor is tasteful, and the whole is on a human scale.
The gardens are stunning! The combination of Gulf Stream climate, south-facing slopes and granite bedrock that absorbs heat by day and releases it by night enables semitropical flora to grow here.
Coming down from the garden,still excited by what I had just seen, I spotted a sign from the past. A lady was wearing a jacket the back of which was adorned with the picture of a glider I knew well, the Slingsby T31 Tandem Tutor. I asked her if she knew of the Vintage Glider Club. She replied that she and her husband were members. He turned back and I immediately recognised Jan Forster, a long-standing Dutch member of the VGC. A small world..again!! After talking for a while they agreed to come over to the boat for a cup of tea and chat after they had seen the castle.
This they did, and we spent a happy hour reminiscing and updating. Jan, now chairman of the VGC had been over for a committee meeting, and was spending a few days with his wife holidaying in Cornwall in his camper van.
Shortly after they left the boat floated and I set sail back to Penzance. The harbourmaster was busy rearranging boats in the harbour. Things were not going easily, and I had to wait over an hour to get in. I filled in the time reaching back and forth, and caught three mackerel. These were consumed on Pepsand by myself, Steve and Sarah, the livaboards on Supernaut. I invited them and John Lyne over for a meal which we ate al fresco in the cockpit. John, who does not like mackerel, had sausages, and celebrated by bringing over a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. Later we went to the Ship Inn for a quick drink. I had decided to go to Scilly, leaving early morning.

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Truro River, Helford River and Penzance

2010-05-23T13:27:00.009+01:00

Day 18
Thursday May 20th
Woke after strange dreams to find Steve up and making coffee. The day was better.. you could see the other side of the river. The forecast gave light winds and smooth sea so we decided to make for Falmouth. This was achieved. Visibility was never good, but we could see the headlands and the smooth sea made spotting pot markers easy. Today we saw guillemot, a lone puffin, shearwater, fulmar, gannet and diver. A mackerel went into the freezer, and we fuelled up before hitting the town. Falmouth is bigger than I expected, and has good shops. We bought meat and wandered up and down the main drag before coming back to Pepsand. G3 connection OK, so the blog was updated. Tomorrow we plan to visit the National Maritime Museum.
The Visitors' Yacht Haven at Falmouth is very convenient, only about 100m from the main shopping street and two excellent pubs. In the evening we ate at the one where we had two fine meals for £10, and drank in the other, just to be fair. Unlike at Fowey the boat lay very quietly and we slept well.
Day 19
Friday May 21st

Up at 06.30 and had leisurely breakfast . The boat was looking decidedly scruffy, so we spent some time washing down the cockpit. By 09.50 everything was done, and we made our way to the museum, only pausing at a wonderful hardware store, Trago Mills, where I managed to get a stainless steel anchor swivel and some cork tiles, which will come in useful to repair the cork tile floor of the cabins.
At this early hour the museum would be very empty, or so we thought. Even as we paid (thanks, Steve) the familiar sounds of a reception class in full voice assailed our eardrums. Accordingly we put some distance between ourselves and the rampaging horde. The museum was interesting and well laid out, in a splendid building, with a fine café which commands the best views in Falmouth, but it was somewhat small to be styled a National Maritime Museum. We came away and did a little food shop. I was able to buy a chunk of Yarg, a Cornish cheese. Back on Pepsand we tried it for lunch : a bit like Wensleydale in taste and Havarti in texture. While Steve supped his coffee in the now blazing sun, I prepared a stuffed breast of lamb and put it in the oven to roast We then left the pontoon and motored upriver to a sheltered spot by Malpas to anchor. A brief check with the harbour authority informed us that the present tides are not sufficient for us to proceed to Truro, which is a shame, but Steve can go ashore and be picked up by Marcus at Malpas, which is barely three miles downriver.

Once at anchor we enjoyed our lamb with boiled new potatoes, green beans and a salade nicoise made by Steve, washed down with some Italian vino da tavola that had been cooling in the fridge. This is living!! The temperature in the boat was not helped by the cooking. Today was the first really hot day, and inside out of the sun it was 25 degrees. In the cockpit it was hotter. There has not been a cloud in the sky since the morning haze lifted. Steve got in the dinghy and cleaned some scum off the hull which had been troubling him. At one stage a harbour patrol launch came alongside and the gentleman pleasantly relieved us of £5 for the privilege of anchoring. If you tie up to a visitors pontoon here it is £3 for 2 hours, or £12 for 24 hours. No water or electricity of course, but rubbish bins are provided. The evening was spent enjoying the isolation. The river was alive with fish rushing just under the surface and leaping out. Egret and heron patrolled the shallows whilst shelduck and gulls hoovered up on the exposed flats on the inside of the bend. We sat outside until dark, finally going to bed at a quarter to eleven.

Day 20
Sat May 22
Another scorcher, but with some wind to keep things a little cooler. Up at 07.00. After breakfast did jobs around the boat. Steve prepared a goulash which he would never taste. A lone heron successfully fished the water,s edge. Marcus was due at about midday. At half past eleven we raised anchor , dropped off rubbish in the bins provided on a nearby pontoon and made our way a few hundred metres to Malpas, tying up at a pontoon. Contact with M was established and at almost 13.00 he arrived. We soon paddled across in the dinghy and so Steve left. I shall miss him. He has been an ideal sailing companion.
Back on Pepsand I motored downriver with the tide and as soon as it opened out into the estuary I was able to kill the motor and sail on the genoa, out past Falmouth and St. Mawes and on to the Helford River, and anchored at Porth Saxon, just inside the river mouth, at 16.15.

Scenically, the anchorage was wonderful. It appeared to be roomy and sheltered, and peaceful. Unfortunately the east wind kicked up a swell which set Pepsand rolling. I did not have a good night.

Day 21
Sun May 23
Woke early and after a quick breakfast left the Helford River, motoring out into a choppy sea. Once in deep water and heading south towards the Lizard the sea became much kinder and we motorsailed on genoa as far as the point. The forecast Nef5 kicked in , and so the rest of the trip to Penzance was reaching at 4 – 5 kt. on the genoa. HM Coastguard warned yachtsmen that powerboat racing was taking place in Mount's Bay, just off Penzance, but they were not difficult to see, hear, and avoid. Penzance Harbour is not large. There is a drying part to the north, and a deep water , smaller section to the south which was easy to spot since the Scillonian was parked at the outer pier. On rounding that, you enter through a lock gate which opens for about three hours at the top of the tide during the day. I had timed it to arrive at HW. The harbourmaster was very laid-back, and took my lines himself. They were offering three days for the price of two, and as I needed a rest and a chance to find a launderette, etc., I took it. Again there was not a cloud in the sky all day. We tied up third out on a raft of yachts. John, the owner of the inside yacht, lives aboard and overwinters in Penzance. He turned out to be a mine of useful information. As he was so helpful and I had rather more goulash than I could manage myself, I invited him over for a meal. Later we walked round the town and he showed me interesting buildings. Naturally we ended in a pub, the Dolphin, where yet another fine pint of Cornish ale was consumed. And so to bed.

Day 22
Monday 24th May
Woke at eight after a really good night. The harbour is very quiet at night. A leisurely breakfast was followed by a hot shower and shave, then it was launderette time. Following John's directions I found it first time and made contact with a form of technology that I had neglected since getting married.

As a ten-year-old I used to take the family washing on my soapbox buggy down Newland Avenue to a launderette near the Monica cinema, thereby earning my pocket money. This Penzance launderette was space-age in refinement. No messing with soap powder or detergent. Put in clothes; insert coins; select temperature; press GO. The tumble-dryer was equally simple and fast. In no time I was out in the hot sun with my washing done. Back on board a cup of tea went down well, as did a little midday nap, broken by the arrival of David, in a very fine Danish-built yacht, tying up alongside Pepsand.

Fowey to Falmouth

2010-05-20T17:44:00.007+01:00

Later, with adequate rise of tide we moved further upriver to a truly beautiful anchorage, Dandy Hole. Here we enjoyed a tranquil evening, even launching the dinghy and taking snaps of the boat as she lay at anchor, and went to bed very content.
Morning came and Steve beat me to it again. I think it is less thirst/hunger/bladder pressure, and more the need for nicotine that gets him out of bed. The morning was spectacular in its stillness. The river lay before us like a sheet of glass, broken only by the splashing of tiny fish and a myriad jellyfish gently brushing the surface as they swam by on the rising tide. And then a deer swam across and spent several minutes seeking a path up the steep bank to the south. After that, bacon, sausage and egg seemed mundane.

Replete and well rested, we left Dandy Hole at 09.10 and motored downriver and out into the Sound. We motorsailed with the main trying to help but not really giving any push until we cleared Rame Head and were able to open out on a westerly heading. The wind picked up, and for a while we were able to beat nearly parallel to the coast across Whitesand Bay. Visibility became very poor, but there were few vessels and hardly any crab pot markers to worry about. By St. George's Island we rolled in the genoa and motorsailed again past Polperro and on to Fowey. Here we used the short stay pontoon to go ashore, shop, and pay our dues. Once moored to the overnight pontoon we were able to relax and enjoy the weather as the sun came out and things warmed up.
After a rest we took the ferry to Fowey and went to the Fowey Gallants YC but they were not yet open. It seemed logical to eat and then try. In the Globe Restaurant we ate well and were soon back at the club. Eventually we worked out how the showers operated, and indulged. Coming into the bar we enquired after the visitors' book. It was in the lobby. We duly signed in, and were immediately greeted by, “What will you have?”. It turned out to be a very pleasant evening chatting with the few members present. Back to Pepsand on the ferry and bed.

Day 17
Wednesday 19th May
The first non-sailing day. Hardly any wind, hardly any visibility, but lots of light but fine, drenching rain. At least it wasn't cold. Up late, we sat around and read until 12.30. The Cornish pasties we had bought yesterday seemed huge, so we heated one up and shared it. In the afternoon the rain stopped and we took the ferry back to Fowey and visited the posher of the two clubs, the Royal Fowey YC, where I was able to shave. We wandered through the town, visited the museum and the aquarium. Perhaps there would be more things of interest across the river in Polruan. Apart from a busy little shipyard, two pubs and a teashop there was little to see. The coast path would have been good, but not in zero visibility. The tea shop was good. We enjoyed toasted crumpets and tea/coffee and took the ferry back. A small cargo vessel left the port sounding its foghorn, a mournful thing. For me the afternoon was enlivened by a pied wagtail which clearly made a good living scrounging on the quayside .It was tame enough for me to get a good photo.
The flora here is interesting, and I was able to take close shots of plants clinging to the wall of the passage leading from the yacht club. One startling newspaper headline caught our eye : one wonders what the windmill had done.
Tomorrow's forecast is not much better. We can hope. There is no point in leaving a secure harbour to motor through fog. We have been very lucky with the weather so far, so “Abwarten und Tee trinken.”

Plymouth and the Tamar

2010-05-17T17:29:00.005+01:00

In the afternoon we walked round the Barbican and on round the seafront and back over the Hoe. Sir Francis was still keeping an eye on things. Back at the harbour we consumed what must be the most impressive beefburgers from Capt'n Jasper's Shack before returning to Pepsand. Whilst this marina is expensive, the service you get is first class, and it is incredibly convenient for the shopping centre of Plymouth. Fried mackerel for tea, and then a pint in the nearest pub, about 100 metres from the marina gate.

Day 15
Monday 17th May
Slept very well. Steve was up first and made coffee. Then cereals and toast. By now the marina reception was open, so we paid and managed to buy a new gas bottle, as ours had run out. To solve the problem of charging mobile and netbook we made our way through the Drake Circus shopping centre to Maplin's where, for a consideration , we obtained an inverter and a charger. The problem appears to be solved.
The tide was high and the lock open for free flow of water and traffic, so we were able to exit the marina promptly, and made up the Tamar, past the Devonport Naval Dockyard.

Passing the German warship Koln we dipped our ensign, but got no response. Bright and sunny. We soon shed pullovers and motored upriver in shirtsleeves. We had hoped to get to Calstock, but the falling tide removed the water, and we turned round to avoid getting stuck, not before running onto the mud once or twice. With the ebbing tide pushing us along we came back rather faster than we went up, and were able to admire the Tamar bridges from the other side before turning west up the St German's River to anchor. Here Steve got cracking and fitted a 12v socket beside the table for convenient charging of the netbook.This is working as I write. What a sailing companion!

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Dartmouth and the Yealm

2010-05-16T14:12:00.004+01:00

Day 12
Friday 14th May
After a late start we walked down into Totnes and managed to find a camera shop where I could obtain a replacement card for the Olympus. Then we strolled to the end of the High St and back to the market, where there was a fairly naff collectors' fair, but under the stage we found a really good café and enjoyed a bacon buttie and tea. Then back to the boat, taking pics en route. Totnes is an attractive place.

This was another little eatery we passed. Pepsand was high and dry, exposing her interesting bits. At low water it was instructive to note the position of large rocks littering the river bed. For some reason Pepsand had adopted a nose-down attitude. Steve read whilst I had a little sleep. After tea we waited until the boat lifted and at 6pm we left the pontoon and moved down to the town quay pontoon in Dartmouth. The berthing officer was an ex-teacher who had taught music at King's Rochester about the same time as I sang in the cathedral choir there. He knew all the usual suspects, including Nick Maddox and John Etherton. Small world!
Dinner was chilli con carne, and , replete, we took ourselves into Dartmouth and the Windjammer for a pint. Then back to the boat. I am now getting 3G internet connection reliably, which is pleasing.

Day 13 Saturday 15th May

A condition of using the very convenient pontoon in Dartmouth is that you have to leave by 08.30. So after an early breakfast we walked around the centre of town, taking pics.
We had topped up with water at Totnes, and it seemed sensible to top up with diesel here, as there is a very convenient fuel barge only a few metres from the quay. This done, we left the Dart and headed west for the Yealm. The trip was uneventful. Three fish were caught, when the sun came out it was warm enough for us to shed our coats. At 16.00 we tied up at a visitors' pontoon in the Yealm at the same time as a larger boat decided to berth down-tide and downwind. Luckily there were some handy persons taking their lines and they brought them to a rapid halt. Otherwise it would have meant taking avoiding action and going round again. Once more we have landed in a really beautiful spot. It is sheltered and warm in the sun.

Day 14
Sunday 16th May
Last night after a meal we took the inflatable across to the jetty and walked along the footpath to the Yealm Yacht Club at Newton Ferrers for a pint. Newton Creek is quite enchanting, the beer was very good, but soon we had to get back to Pepsand. The transition to boat from shore was uneventful. A Dufour 24 was rafted up outside us when we got back.
This morning it soon became apparent we wouldn't be going far. The wind has gone round to the west, bringing rain and poor visibility. Since Plymouth was only a few miles away we decided to make for a marina in the town and then at least if the weather doesn't improve we have something to do, if only shopping. My 12v phone charger has packed in, so will have to be replaced. I can still charge up whenever we are plugged in to shore power thanks to the 13a sockets on board.
Our neighbours rose at about 09.00 and after a hearty breakfast we followed them out of the river and round the Great Mewstone, upon which we noticed a sort of bothy. Perhaps a refuge hut or hermit's shack? Once round the corner we could sail all the way to the Cattewater. The lock-keeper was very helpful . Inside the marina we were given the berth D2, and had no idea where to steer, but a pleasant yoof waved us in and took our lines. We sit virtually alongside the offices. Showers, which are state-of-the-art, rubbish bins, exit to the wide world of Plymouth are all but a few steps away. Internet access works (!) after a fashion. Now we learned of the further closing of British airspace by volcanic dust. Unfortunately, Isolde is flying back from Germany today. The Stansted website said they are expecting her flight as normal, so she may be lucky.

The Lovely Dart.

2010-05-14T09:59:00.004+01:00

Day 11
Thursday 13th May
A lazy start. We got up at gone 08.00 and had a leisurely breakfast. I decided it was time to change the fuel filters. The old ones came off, no trouble. Then the new ones went on. Could we bleed the system?? No fuel flow. Logic demanded that an air leak was preventing fuel from running through the system. Eventually we discovered that we had been trying to fit two o-rings where one should be, and rectified that one. Still no diesel. There was plenty of fuel in the tank, but we emptied a jerry can of fuel into the main tank to fill it and raise the level. This allowed fuel to fill the primary filter bowl. By turning the engine over with the decompression lever lifted we thought we would get fuel through to the fine filter, but it did not want to come. Finally we filled the fine filter from a funnel, replaced the bleed screw and turned the engine over. After some hesitation it ran!! By now it was 11.00 and our restful morning had gone, but we enjoyed a shower, and for me, a shave before walking down into town. I was able to buy a card reader at last, and Steve did some food shopping. Back on the boat we had lunch and set off for Dartmouth.
Outside the harbour it was blowing SWf4, so we sailed on the genoa before turning south and motoring to the entrance of the Dart. There we sailed again until we entered the narrows and the wind became very flukey.

Dartmouth is very interesting. The banks rise steeply from the river, where there are very many moorings. Two ferries, which have right of way, ply back and forth. Being there early in the season meant we had no problems, and we were soon winding up a most picturesque river whose well wooded banks were a pleasure to behold. The timing was good. In the Brixham Yacht Club a gentleman had told us the best time to be at Dartmouth for going up to Totnes was three hours before HW. We were early on that, and had no difficulty motoring quietly upriver to the Baltic Wharf. At Dittisham I rang Baltic Wharf, and was given instructions, and , importantly, the gate code.

Finding the pontoon and tying up was no problem and we were soon on our way into town. Totnes is pretty and seems well-heeled. About the size of Tenterden, it is divided by the Dart. We arrived after things had calmed down in the evening. In the Lord Nelson we enjoyed a good meal and a couple of pints before mooching back to Pepsand, still afloat. We shall stop over here for a day, perhaps dropping down on the tide tomorrow night to a n anchorage or mooring nearer to Dartmouth.

To Brixham

2010-05-12T19:32:00.003+01:00

Day 9
Tuesday 11th May
Left Weymouth at 08.00 and reached out to Portland Bill. Encountered a little rough stuff, but by the time I had started the engine we were out of it. The wind was not as strong as forecast, and it soon became apparent that we would have to motor all the way to Brixham, so we changed plan and made for Axmouth running along at some 4kts using the cruising chute and main. Even so the wind was disappointing and eventually went northerly. So we motored inshore and then sailed parallel to the coast past Lyme Regis towards our destination. The sea was very calm and Steve prepared a fine meal of beef braised in wine with peppers. We did manage to catch two fine mackerel. They will do for tomorrow. When we were about half an hour away the harbourmaster at Axmouth advised us that the bar was not really safe today. Accordingly we motored back to Lyme Regis and tied up against the harbour wall at 17.35.
After tea we walked over to the yacht club and enjoyed a pint and a chat with one of their senior members, also an ex-teacher, before turning in at 10pm. Early start required tomorrow. HW 0600.
Day 10
Wednesday 12th May.
Woke at about 5.00 and made porridge for breakfast. It did not take long to ready the boat for sea. As thee was no space to turn under way we wound the boat before setting off. The forecast Nef3 was there as soon as we left the shelter of the harbour, and we were soon moving along the coast, about half a mile off, towards Axmouth. Here we came close inshore so Steve could see the narrow entrance, and then we set course to pass close in by Beer Head. The wind seemed ideal to run double headed down to Brixham, and so we hoisted the chute and did so for a short while before the wind petered slowly out and began to vary in direction. Some shower clouds were advancing. We accordingly snuffed the chute and changed tack with the genoa, but the achieved speed of just over two knots was insufficient, and so the engine was employed. Then came the rain, not heavy and not prolonged, but then the wind moved round further so that we were motorsailing on a beat into a southerly sea breeze. This continued to Brixham where we tied up on the club pontoon at 14.00.
Shortly;y after that the dinghy was launched and paddled over to the steps. The clubhouse was open but unattended, so we moseyed off down to town and a spot of food shopping.

Catch up!

2010-05-10T17:28:00.001+01:00

Have had further problems with internet access, but am now in Wetherspoons in Weymouth, getting the blog up to date. Simplest and quickest is to copy my cruise log.

Day 4
6th May
Left Rye at nearly six and motored out to the harbour entrance. As soon as we were outside the wind began to pick up from the north east, and so the genoa was unrolled and engine switched off. The wind gradually built to force 4 and apart from a brief episode off Seaford where the wind dropped of completely for a few minutes, we sailed all the way. It dropped as a sea breeze set in, and soon main was set and off we sped on the other tack. The initial destination, Newhaven, was soon forgotten, and course set for Littlehampton. Tied up there at 18.00. Fish and chips for supper!
Day 5
7th May
On the boat I have no difficulty waking and getting going. The alarm was set for 6 but I woke at 5.30. After the usual hearty breakfast the little ship was soon ready for the sea. The anticyclone over the eastern Atlantic continues to supply a favourable wind, N'ly f4 is forecast. As we leave the pontoon and make our way along the river to the sea it is calm. 2.4m depth at the bar. Almost immediately the wind picks up and after motoring out far enough to give space into wind, the main is set and the genoa unrolled. It is very satisfying to use the engine only to get in and out of port.
4kts is reached, then 5, but it settles at around 4. This is ideal trolling speed for mackerel, so the rod is soon in action. By nine o'clock tonight's supper is caught. Last weekend the farm shop at Brize Norton was selling these mackerel at over £3 each! Through the Looe Channel in fine style we accelerate as we turn from a broad reach to a beam reach and then a fine reach. From Selsey you can see the Spinnaker Tower in the sunshine. By way of a change I choose to pass through the old submarine barrier to the north of the Horse Tower, and enter Portsmouth Harbour as the Royal Navy, in the shape of HMS Dauntless, moves out. The Royal Clarence Marina was quite full, and not trying very hard, so I moved back a few hundred metres to the old Camper and Nicholson yard, Now Gosport Marina, where I was received with courtesy , if not affection. Text from Steve: he comes tomorrow. Also texts from Birgit and Mogens, confirming their travel arrangements to meet me in Scotland in July. The marina is very near the main shopping street in Gosport, and so I was soon in Morrison's, stocking up. It is in places like this that you sense the economic downturn. So many charity shops! Tomorrow morning I plan to take the ferry to Portsmouth and seek out a card reader. If Steve comes early enough we can slip across the Solent to Newtown River to anchor for the night before sailing to Weymouth the next day. If the anchorage is too crowded we shall have to choose between Yarmouth and Lymington, or perhaps Keyhaven. If he comes late we can seek out an anchorage in the upper reaches of the harbour here.
Day 6
8th May
Slept till 8!! Had shave and shower, then changed into “walking out “ clothes, and had a hearty breakfast at the Crew Mess Café, after which took the ferry to Pompey. The aircraft carrier that had been moored across the river had gone during the night. At Gunwharf Quays in Carphone Warehouse a very capable and pleasant IT expert, Richard, succeeded in installing my BT mobile modem and getting me on internet. Bought a USB mouse. The fiddly touch pad had been annoying me somewhat. No luck with the xD card reader. The light rain is still falling. A good day to spend in port. There is a half-hourly train service from Waterloo, so Steve could show up any time. As I typed that, he arrived at the boat, with Isolde, who had driven him over from Canterbury. We chatted over a cuppa until it was time for her to drive back. As it was still only 1pm and the weather, though cool and damp, was very suitable, with the Northeasterly breeze I have been getting used to, we decided to head off down the Solent. It being Saturday there were many yachts by East Coast standards, but it was quiet by the standard here. We tooled along downwind but into tide at a respectable 4kt, but decided to use the motor to get to Yarmouth in time to go out for a meal. A call to the marina established that there was space for us, and we squeeezed into a 28'6” gap on Red Pontoon at 7pm. Our chosen eatery was the Blue Crab, a fish restaurant that Paul and I discovered a few years back. Steve insisted on treating me. He's the sort of crew you want!! At about 10pm we negotiated the short crossing back to the boat in the inflatable and went to bed. In the night the wind got up, but we were pretty snug.
Day 7
Sunday 9th May
Woke early and had breakfasted by 7.30. The marina runs a water taxi service, and the boat just happened along as it became apparent to us that we needed to get ashore. The young lady driver was very skilled and deposited us at the office in no time, taking us back to Pepsand shortly after. Since putting the boat back in the water I had not refilled the tanks, so we watered up before leaving at 7.45. The weather was certainly drier than the day before, the wind a good f4, and soon we were progressing down-tide towards the Needles. Here we turned to a westerly heading for Poole. The trip across the bay was uneventful, and we finally anchored in South Deep at 1.30. Steve excelled himself by cooking sausages for lunch and capped this by getting my GPS repeater working and tidying up the wiring. I had unwittingly disabled the GPS NMEA port. The warmer day forecast did not happen, but it helped when the tide turned and allowed the boat to head into wind at anchor. The passing tripper boats were not well filled. The same weather is promised for tomorrow, so we shall head for Weymouth.

Another day

2010-05-05T17:38:00.004+01:00

Left Dover at 07.45, and let a cruise liner berth before hitting the high seas. What a difference 24 hours makes. Today was a gentle sail almost downwind and certainly down-tide to Rye. Boatspeed never above 3.5kts, but smooth sea except for the inevitable disturbance from the ferries. After passing Dungeness close inshore I was passed by the smallest square rigger I have ever seen. It seemed an age before we cleared the Lydd firing range, but the wind remained steady and by 16.15 we were tied up at the Strand in Rye.

There had to be a hitch, and my card reader packed up. However, a visit to the Rye Internet Cafe brought help and sustenance with a certain Gallic charm, as the proprietors are French. Vive l'Entente Cordiale!

Under Way

2010-05-04T17:38:00.004+01:00

The adventure has begun. last night Ingrid and Jerry brought me to Conyer and after a cuppa in the clubhouse they departed and I left the marina, dropping down the Swale as far as Harty to moor for the night. After a good night the mooring was slipped at 05.30, and we motored out of the Swale into a stiff northerly. Fortunately there was enough north in the wind to allow a long beat on half genoa along the north Kent coast. Progress was rapid, and from North Foreland the wind was behind, and so we continued at a merry pace, the tide dutifully pushing us along. Broadstairs, Ramsgate and Deal passed in turn and at 12.30 we tied up in Dover Marina. Over 40 miles. A good first day.

Relaunch, Tuesday 27th April.

2010-04-27T15:04:00.009+01:00

Another sunny day with little wind was just right for the relaunch. On the way to Conyer the mobile rang. I half expected it to be the marina , confirming the relaunch, but it was Birgit, Ingrid's cousin in Denmark, asking to be included in the cruise from Oban. No problem! So there will be four of us through the Caledonian Canal: Paul, Mogens, Birgit and myself. Last night came an E-mail from Adam and Lucy. They plan to fly out to Belfast on 25th June and back from Islay on 30th. Not as long as I would like, but they have to earn a living!

At the marina I went into Wilkinson Sails, and was given £25 sponsorship by Andrew, in cash, up front! Very encouraging.

Pepsand was lowered into the water about half an hour before high water. Steve Walls (Moonstream) lent a hand, and it all went without a hitch. Tied up in the usual berth I set about inflating the dinghy and soon it was stowed on the foredeck in front of the mast. The stern gland received its annual grease and squeeze. A check revealed no leaks and so lunch was taken. Then a pleasant walk along the seawall with Des before returning home with the ladder. Not long to go n0w.

http://www.rnli.org.uk/

http://www.rnli.org.uk/how_to_help_us

Ready for the Water

2010-04-23T11:42:00.007+01:00

With the brilliant spring weather continuing, the last days of preparation have been a pleasant experience. Yesterday saw Desmond and me at the boatyard early. One of the really good things about Swale Marina is the convenience of a sail loft and really good sailmakers, Wilkinson Sails. The mainsail cover had been getting rather past its use-by date, and a new version was ordered and completed within a week at a very reasonable price. We picked it up and rigged it as the first job. Next the propeller was rubbed down and given a coat of hard antifouling. Then to the engine. Refit impeller, retension the alternator belt, check the oil, and rig up a hose to provide cooling water, and very soon the sweet rumble of the Volvo MD2030 breaks the silence. (And with the commercial flying ban, it has been unusually silent in Kent recently.) Now a check round the rig: all pins in place and properly locked; stanchion retaining bolts secure; guardrail tension correct. All the while Desmond stands guard, seeing off occasional doggie visitors and snoozing under the open tailgate. After coffee comes a delicate task of filling minor scratches in the gelcoat, rubbing back and polishing. Then a careful stow in the lazarette, followed by a wash and clean and polish in the lower half of the cockpit. A bite to eat and then a fine walk with Des.

Conyer lies on the Saxon Shore Way, and there is a choice of really good walks. This time we chose to go along the west side of the creek. There were no sheep around, so Des went off the leash and had a really good, i.e. muddy time in the many ponds and shallow pools beside the sea wall. A good day, and Pepsand is ready for relaunch next week.

http://rnli.org.uk/how_to_support_us

http://rnli.org.uk

Another spring day.

2010-04-20T20:08:00.002+01:00

The wind has dropped and so it was possible to bend on the genoa (120%). Went to Conyer early and had the sail on very quickly before the forecast wind arrived. However, the wind, when it did come, was most welcome, keeping me cool as I rolled on the antifouling paint. Not a pleasant job, but soon over. All the charts are now stowed in correct order, and there is more than enough liquid refreshment aboard to last the whole trip, ...perhaps. I had been putting it off, but today was the best time to clear the cockpit lockers, arrange their contents, and take home the unnecessary junk that accumulates there. The sterntube greaser swallowed half a tin of grease, and there is plenty left to go at during the next three months. Spare diesel cans are full and stowed along with the engine oil and antifreeze.

Yesterday at home after a goodly bout of gardening I ran the outboard, which started easily. The petrol still should be renewed, a job for tomorrow. The engine starter battery seemed low on charge, so I removed it and took it to a local electrical company to be tested. Once there, it showed good charge. Perhaps my multimeter is at fault. At least I don't have to buy a new battery this time.

The batteries are 90 A/h . The starter battery is a standard automotive item, whilst the number two battery for domestic work is a deep cycle type. We carry a spare, dual purpose battery, just in case. Shore power is provided by a Guest 15A unit, complete with residual current circuit breaker and a double gang 13 A socket. So we are well set up.

Spring Cleaning.

2010-04-12T21:03:00.005+01:00

The fine weather continues. On Sunday my favourite grandson Richard came with me to the boatyard. We had intended to bend on the genoa, but the strong northeasterly wind precluded that. Instead we washed the interior and polished all the woodwork. Now she looks as good inside as outside. We found one or two small problems which we fixed. The air filter, having been cleaned, went back, and a small crack in the saloon table was glued and clamped. Mooring pennants and other ropes were checked and restowed. At the bottom of the locker was the outboard motor bracket, an emergency device should the main engine fail. I have not had to use it, but some years ago, on a different boat a similar bracket was most useful and got us into Levington when the fuel system developed an air leak and stopped the engine. In calm conditions the Honda 2 pushed my old Westerly Centaur "Bhanshu" along at 3kts.

Real Progress!

2010-04-09T16:40:00.004+01:00

The long-awaited spring weather has arrived at last, and real progress is being made. The mast is stepped and everything there seems to be working. After setting up and safety-pinning the rig, the boom went on and at the same time I renewed the lazyjack lines. The mainsail was bent on. Topsides, deck, coachroof and cockpit have been cleaned and polished, the sprayhood refitted and reproofed, and dodgers lashed in place. New jackstays are now rigged, and two hardpoints fitted , one on each side of the hatch on the cockpit bulkhead.

Inside, a thorough survey of "what's in which locker" revealed some interesting doubling up, and no fewer than three spare impellers!! I seem to collect the same kind of item repeatedly. A sign of old age? Like refitting the in-line water pump back to front? (The plus side is a clean bilge.) Just before Easter an extra ten metres of anchor chain was linked on, and the chain tastefully marked at five-metre intervals with coloured cable ties. To cope with weedy bottoms a mighty Fisherman anchor has been added to the armoury. So now we have a 25lb CQR, a Danforth kedge and the Fisherman. Forty metres of 3/8" chain leading to thirty metres of Anchorplait and a fifty-metre Ankralina should suffice. For the buoys we have one inch diameter mooring pennants for clipping on, useful reminders of years spent on swinging moorings in the Medway.

Spring at last!

2010-03-19T08:52:00.006Z

The garden is full of snowdrops, daffodils are opening, and after a week of reasonable dry weather it has been possible to start preparing the boat. Once the cover came off the grime soon followed and now Pepsand is clean again, though not yet polished. With the mast down it had a good going-over and a thorough check revealed no problems. All winches have been cleaned and greased, likewise seacocks, and the underwater hull is ready for antifouling.

At times like this the boatyard hums with activity as owners emerge from hibernation and go about their business with quiet satisfaction, mainly, and only occasionally is the happy atmosphere rent with an exasperated curse as yet another washer or spanner finds its way into the bilges. Pepsand's design has great advantages during the lay-up period as she stands on the hard, needing no cradle and with every part of the hull easily accessible. When cruising it is very useful to be able to stand on the bottom alongside a quay in drying harbours like Rye or Lyme Regis and not worry that the boat could topple over when the water goes. Drying out like this also enables one to inspect the rudder, propeller and water intakes from time to time. Another welcome aspect of this design is that the twin keels are integral to the moulded hull, and not bolted on, so there are no hull-keel joints to leak and no keelbolts to corrode. All this makes for one happy sailor.

Now for a Clarkson moment : "They say ......that the Countess 28 is the only boat larger inside than out!" There is an astonishing roominess in this yacht. Many thirty-footers have less space. There are six berths, and whilst that does by no means translate into "room to sleep six", all the berths are full length, and stowage space is generous, as is headroom. The cockpit is very roomy. Pepsand is tiller steered, and in port, with tiller hinged up out of the way there are seats for many. Some years ago I built two boxes which stand in the stern quarters, and apart from stowage for hoses and emergency gear they provide forward-facing seats. These significantly reduce fatigue when one is sailing for long periods and also raise one to be able comfortably to see forward over the sprayhood

A New Tack

2010-02-23T10:25:00.011Z

Well, the snow came back! When the spring finally comes it will be with a rush. Last week saw a visit to the Pirate's Cave. Some more anchor chain was purchased and a Fisherman anchor ordered, the better to deal with kelpy bottoms in the Scottish anchorages.

Whilst web browsing on the subject of circumnavigations like this one being planned, I came across an account by Mike Fellowes about his trip round the UK in his cutter "Kes" in aid of the RNLI. What a good idea! See sailtales.co.uk/ So I decided to link this cruise to a fundraise for this excellent cause. A letter to the area fundraising manager has resulted in some very good advice and help. I have opened a page on http//www.justgiving.com/UKCruise and am looking forward to receiving forms and advertising material from the RNLI.

After the Snow

2010-01-17T15:09:00.009Z

The snow has gone, so over to the boat, not seen for a month. The tarpaulin is doing its job. On checking the mast lights, it seems that the problem with the steaming light is not the wiring, but a dud bulb, which simplifies things.

The Admiralty chart folio for the East Coast of Ireland has come, and I have been genning up on ports and creating waypoints. There are some interesting websites with plenty of information, so I'm making up my own pilot book. Better than shovelling snow!

Now I'm thinking of moving directly from Scilly to the Wexford area, avoiding what could be a problematic Bristol Channel sector. The Irish coast is a richer and less challenging environment than the eastern side of the Irish Sea. The likelihood of westerlies is high, and therefore one should avoid a lee shore where possible. It opens up Dublin as a possible crewchange location, with its good rail, sea and air links.

Early preparations.

2009-12-30T22:03:00.003Z

As usual the boat is on the hard, wrapped up for the winter. This time the mast is down in order to carry out some rewiring. No serious work is planned apart from that.

At home charts have been procured, mostly Admiralty Leisure Folios, and various websites scoured for ideas and information. The usual suspects have been apprised of the plan. A spare 120AH battery is sitting under the desk, powering the Garmin plotter. In due course it will be carried as a spare on board. Some time ago I came across a Cruising Association Handbook, and more recently, the latest edition of the Forth Yacht Club's Handbook, both in charity shops. They are both a mine of info. I intend to get hold of similar pilot book(s) for the Scottish West Coast. Other useful sources of information are http://ports.org.uk/ and http://marinas.com/ .

The Garmin GPSMAP 555 is a fine tool. Combining Google Earth with the plotter and charts gives one a very fair idea of the coastal topography, and is great fun. All potential stopover ports and anchorages are on my little list.

We carry Navtex and of course VHF. Next spring there will be a laptop, so the internet will be available for weather forecasts wherever we can find WIFI coverage, as well as the usual marina offerings.

Starting up.

2009-12-30T21:58:00.000Z

This is the start of what I hope will be an informative log of next year's cruise round Britain. I have long wanted to sail the west coast of Scotland, and had the ambition to go throught he Caledonian Canal. This year, after an enjoyable cruise along the South Coast to Brixham and back it occurred to me that that was roughly a third of the distance we would need to cover in a trip round the UK. Having digested that, it then became clear that if I wished to do just that, it would have to be done fairly soon at my age. So now I'm at the stage of having decided to do it and am gathering information and setting the broad outline of the plan. The idea is to set out in early May and travel leisurely, spending time in interesting places and taking perhaps three months.

Pepsand is in good order, and needs little work to bring her up to scratch. Charts have been obtained and a preliminary survey of UK ports carried out. The idea is to sail clockwise, but the detail has to be decided in view of conditions at the time. As for crew, it is comfortable with three, and ok with four, and there are plenty of joining points. A preliminary list would include Portsmouth, Weymouth, Plymouth, Falmouth, Fishguard, Holyhead, Belfast, Oban, Inverness, Edinburgh, and Scarborough. Crew are lined up for the Belfast - Oban leg, and for the canal.

This is Pepsand tied up to the new harbour wall beside the Brixham Y C last July.